LVOV REGIONAL COUNCIL OF SDSO "BUREVESTNIK" REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF WESTERN DOMBAY-ULGEN (4038 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL (CAUCASUS. Area from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass)

Team of the Lvov Regional Council of SDSO "Burevestnik"

SENCHINA S.V. — captain, CMS BOLIZHEVSKY V.K. — coach, MS NIKOLAYCHUK O.L. — CMS UFIMTSEV V.D. — CMS ONYSKO O.S. — 1st sports category

Description of the first ascent of the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif from the Western peak to the saddle with ascent to the Western peak via the NW wall

5B category of complexity July 12–17, 1962 The Dombay region, where the Dombay-Ulgen massif is located, lies in the border zone between the Western and Central Caucasus, so it combines the nature of:

• the humid warm Western Caucasus;
• the more continental Central Caucasus. The territory of the region is part of the Teberda State Reserve. The climate of the Dombay region depends on the impact of several factors, the most important of which are:
• year-round influence of the western air transfer (warm and humid air masses);

Fig. 43 Fig. 44

3. Ascent to the peak Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen via the northwestern ridge (Sasorov's route) — cat. 4A (fig. 43 and 44, on the right)

From the Ptysh bivouac, ascend to the right-bank moraine of the northern Ptysh glacier, then 400–500 m to the left and up a snowy couloir to the base of the rocks of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From Dombay plain 6–7 hours. From the bivouac, first on snow, then up a couloir to the right, exit to the ridge and approach the first wall. Bypass the wall on the right through an internal corner (belay!) and exit to the ridge through brown rocks. Along the ridge 130–150 m and ascent to the second wall.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR alpine climbing championship in 1973 I category ascent — technically difficult 2. Region of ascent — Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route — Main Dombay-Ulgen 4040 m, South wall 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference 1040 m

• average steepness 63° Length of difficult sections 210 m

5. Pitons hammered in: rock 121 ice — screw 1

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°

Class — technical. 3. Caucasus. Dombay area. Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:

• rock — 5/0
• ice — 4/0
• protection gear — 116/0
• slings on protrusions — 31/0. Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress. Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category. Team members:

USSR Climbing Championship 1973. Technical Climbing Category

Ascent of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak via the South Face (First Ascent)

The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" mountaineering camp under the "Burevestnik" sports society. Coach: Master of Sports of the USSR, R.P. Stroganov. Western Caucasus — 1973 — Fig. 2. South Face of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak Since the assault team was within sight of the observation group for the first three days, the latter was able to provide clear guidance to the assault team.

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Order No. 582, clause 34, January 26, 1988

Route Description

70. to Mt. Dombay (Main) via the Northeast face, category 5B. By A. Ovchinnikov, 56. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Description of the ascent route to Mt. Dombay Main via the Northeast face, category 5B

From Dombay clearing, follow the trail to Chuchkhur waterfalls and further to Chuchkhur pass. From the pass, traverse right along the northeastern slopes of Mt. Dombay Small and Mt. Dombay Main, and exit under the Eastern ridge of Dombay Main. Bivouac. From Dombay clearing — 5–6 hours. From the bivouac, first along the eastern ridge for 100–120 m, and then along the northeastern slope of Mt. Dombay Small across the glacier and, further, through the bergschrund, exit under the northeastern face of Mt. Dombay Main. From the bivouac — 2–3 hours (depending on the glacier condition). From the glacier, ascend 40 m to the right-upwards along the slab-like rocks (monolith) of the face to an internal angle. Ascend left-upwards through the internal angle to a 10-meter wall. Exit onto the counterfort via difficult rocks of the wall. There are sufficient places for organizing belay. Ascend 400 m along the wet monolithic rocks of the counterfort (rock is slab-like, smooth, with few cracks) towards the base of the face (lower half of the counterfort is covered with ice and snow. Crampons are desirable!). In the upper part of the counterfort, a place for an overnight stay can be found. Further, ascend 20 m right-upwards through the internal angle, and then 60 m along difficult and very difficult rocks to an inclined talus shelf (live rocks!). Traverse left along the shelf to the outer angle and ascend along it to a wall.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
3. Peak Dombay (Main) via north-eastern wall
4. Categorized route 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 787 m Length — 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 345 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°, including 5 category of difficulty — 78°.
6. Pitons hammered: — 126 | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

№ 582 p.34 January 26, 1988 72

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

69. to Mt. Dombay/Gl./ via North face 5A cat. diff. V. Budanov, 38 Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt. Dombay-Ulgen Main via North face 5A cat. diff. From Dombay plain through Chuchkhur pass, then traverse right — exit under East ridge of Mt. Maly Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombay plain — 5–6 hours. From bivouac, first along the eastern ridge 190–120 m, then along the northeastern slope of Maly Dombay-Ulgen and through a bergschrund, exit under the northeastern wall of Mt. Glavny Dombay-Ulgen. Further ascent up difficult rocks 60 m (rocks are smooth, with few cracks), then exit right onto a steep snowpatch (Rockfall hazard!!!). The snowpatch is traversed right-up, and then up rocks of medium difficulty in the direction of a spalling. Near the spalling — a flat area, possible bivouac.