USSR Alpine Union

South-West Pamir

Taversing the peaks:

• peak Akmú (5214 m)
• peak Garm-Chashma (4900 m)
• peak Shpil (5558 m)
• 5350
• (5492 m)
• peak Mayakovsky (6096 m) Team from Donetsk Regional Sports Committee

Team Report

Sverdlovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the Ascent of Peak Mayakovsky via the NW Wall

Class — High-altitude Technical

27

Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

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5558
& 5400 \
& 5200 \
5000

Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.

I. Class of ascent: first ascent 2. Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley 3. Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72° 6. Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5 7. Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7. 8. Bivouacs: 1st - sit­ting in a tent, 2nd - ly­ing in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sit­ting in a tent, plat­form laid on an in­clined shelf, 4th, 5th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled in the snow un­der the over­hang of the I 7th bas­tion, 6th - ly­ing in a tent - plat­form tram­pled on a snow ridge

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Region — Pamir, Ishkashimsky Range.
3. Shater, 5568, center of the NW wall.
4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1318 m, length — 1680 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty — 920 m. Average steepness of the main part of the wall — 82°, average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 73°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 405/197 bolts: 160/6 chocks: 352/174 ice screws: 19

Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship

on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object

Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:

II a c ii o­p t

Ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship on August 15, 1973. 1 Ascent class — technically difficult. 2 Ascent region — 10.3. Pamir. 3 Ascent route — Peak 5497 m. 4 Ascent characteristics:

• height difference — 1900 m
• average steepness — 80°
• length of difficult sections — 670 m, 6 km 5 Pitons driven:
• rock — 538 (including those driven at the bivouac)
• ice — 22