Ishkoshim Range

A route in the Pamir Mountains, elevation 5568 m, grade 6A, with a detailed description of the ascent to the summit.

Pn. uamer 5568 м 146.60

The ascent of Shater peak (5568 m) via the North-West wall, category 6B, made in 1985 by a team led by Vladimir Balberdin.

II A C II O P T Climbing category: high-altitude technical 2. Climbing region: Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley, Ishkashim Range Peak Shatyor, 5568 m, northwest wall (route I. Grigorenko — Prigody) Difficulty category: 6B cat., second ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 1368 m route length — 1655 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 715 m, including 6 cat. — 300 m, steepness of the main part of the route — 68° (4200–5210) Pitons driven: Rock Shoulder Pitons Nuts Ice 139–37 5–4 35 Team's walking hours: 47 and 5 days

Description of a challenging ascent by the team of the Ukrainian Physical Education and Sports Committee to Peak 5497 in the Pamir Mountains in 1973.

II a c ii op t Ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship on August 15, 1973. 1 Ascent class — technically difficult. 2 Ascent region — 10.3. Pamir. 3 Ascent route — Peak 5497 m. 4 Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1900 m average steepness — 80° length of difficult sections — 670 m, 6 km 5 Pitons driven: rock — 538 (including those driven at the bivouac) ice — 22

### First Ascent of Peak 5497 via the Northwest Face In 1973, a team from the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports achieved the first ascent of Peak 5497 via its northwest face in the Pamir Mountains. The route is classified as category 6 complexity.

Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:

Description of the first ascent of the northwestern wall of Shater Peak (5,568m) in the Pamir Mountains, Ishkashim Range, made in 1985 by a team of Russian climbers.

Climbing category — high-altitude technical. Region — Pamir, Ishkashimsky Range. Shater, 5568, center of the NW wall. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference — 1318 m, length — 1680 m, length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty — 920 m. Average steepness of the main part of the wall — 82°, average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 73°. Pitons hammered: rock: 405/197 bolts: 160/6 chocks: 352/174 ice screws: 19

Description of the first ascent of Shater peak (5568 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the North-West face, rated as 5E difficulty.

I. Class of ascent: first ascent Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72° Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5 Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7. Bivouacs: 1st - sitting in a tent, 2nd - lying in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sitting in a tent, platform laid on an inclined shelf, 4th, 5th - lying in a tent - platform trampled in the snow under the overhang of the I 7th bastion, 6th - lying in a tent - platform trampled on a snow ridge

Report on the first ascent of the right part of the northwest wall of Mater Peak 5568m, made by the Kharkov mountaineering committee team in July 1986.

Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category REPORT on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.

A description of the ascent route to the summit, including the altitudes of intermediate points and the final destination.

5558 & 5400 \ & 5200 \ 5000

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the classic route, features, and key points of technical difficulty.

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Description of the 4A category complexity route to the summit of Peak Shpil (5497 m) in the South-Western Pamir through the north-eastern snowfields and the eastern ridge.

27 Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of: Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973 Contents