Report

On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

(37)
(38)
4.5.5

To the championship of the country in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the eastern wall from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Team of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society TBILISI 1970 List of participants of the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society team

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent region — Pamir.
3. Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximately).
5. Route characteristics (first ascent section):
   • Total height difference — 1680 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m
   • Average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used:

Topo­scheme

— ROUTE TO p. VOROZHARSKOGO (35 grade) — ROUTE TO p. BA­NYAN­NY (26 grade)

Бо­но­я­пчо­ро­го

The ascent to the ridge on the left along the track is initially on snow (30–35°), then the snow gives way to ice covered with a thin layer of loose snow (steepness 40–45°). Exit to the second saddle from the steep ascent. Further along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes "head-on". Descent to the saddle before the steep ascent via a wall (5 m). From the saddle, on the right side of the steep, wide gully along the rocks. Snow-covered slabs, rope protection is via rock features. Having passed a large smooth slab (photo 2), upwards to the right via a short wall. In this section (from the saddle), 3 rock pitons were hammered in. Further along a not very pronounced steep (55–60°) ridge upwards. The rocks are solid, местами заглаженные, rope protection via rock features (I–2 pitons per rope). Photo 3. In places, there are sheer walls 10–15 m. Exit to the right shoulder of the gendarme (Photo 4), bypassing it on the right via a narrow ledge above the sheer drop and descent to the saddle before the snowy ascent. The total ascent to the gendarme is about 300 m, with a total of 11 pitons hammered in. From the base of the ridge — 4 hours. From the saddle, a steep (45°–50°) snowy ascent. The snow is exceptionally heavy, depth — 80 cm – 1 m, loose. In places, there is a weak crust, on which one can move by crawling. Ascent 100 m. Further, a more gentle wide ridge, the character of the snow is the same. Finally, a long ascent along a slope of about 30° leads to the summit of Peak Volodarsky (on the left side — a cornice). From the saddle behind the gendarme — 4 hours. The descent is initially along the north-eastern ridge for 200 m, a steep ridge — 50–60°, then downwards to the left, bypassing the ice drops. Snow depth is about 60 cm, loose. Further, re-entering the ascent tracks and following them to the overnight stop. From the summit — 3–4 hours. On the next day, descent to the base camp.

The ascent of Peak Volodarsky (5567 m), Baigashka region, was made by a group working as part of the High-Altitude Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The goal of the expedition was to traverse p. Trud — p. V. Slutskaya; among the acclimatization exits was an exit to the area of l. Volodarsky. From l. Volodarsky, ascents are possible to:

• p. Uritsky,
• p. Frunze,
• p. "5757",
• p. Volodarsky. Mostly, these routes are undoubtedly routes of the highest category of difficulty, however, on p. Volodarsky, an ascent along the northern ridge is possible, which is simpler. The route is combined — a 300 m rocky edge is of certain technical interest, and the further path along the ridge gives an idea of the nature of snow at high altitudes in this region. The ascent was made by a group consisting of: | Shumilov O. I. (leader) | 1st sports category | | :-------------------: | :-------------: |