Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Account of a team’s passage on a category 6 route on the northwestern wall of Peak 4507 in the Kara-Shyv valley, Turkestan Range, in 1988.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley.
  3. Peak 4507 m. First ascent via the left part of the northwest wall.
  4. 6B cat. diff. (approximate).
  5. Height difference 1300 m, length 2010 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 1115 m, including 535 m of 6 cat. diff. Average steepness of the main part of the route: I wall — 75° II wall — 80°
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First ascent of Peak 4520 via the right part of the northwest wall, cat. 6B, 1485 m, 38 hours of walking time.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin valley.
  3. Peak "4520", via the right part of the NW wall.
  4. Category 6B proposed, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 1100 m, length 1485 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 1275 m, including 645 m of 6B category. The average slope of the route is 70° (3420-4520). The average slope of the wall part of the route is 76° (3420-4340).
  6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |
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Description of the passage of a category 5 route along the North-Eastern wall of Peak 4520m in the Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, completed by a group of Dnipropetrovsk climbers in 1988.

Passport

  1. Technical category.
  2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 4520 m via the Southeast wall.
  4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference 550 m, length. Length of sections:
    • 6th category of difficulty — 110 m
    • 5B category of difficulty — 260 m Average steepness of the route — 58°.
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Report on the traverse of three peaks in the Turkestan Range, carried out by the Uzbekistan MS team as part of the CIS Alpine Championship in 1992.

Ascent Passport

  1. Traverse class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
  3. Peak 4507 m, 1000th Anniversary of Baptism of Rus via SE wall, 6A cat. diff. (3rd ascent); peak 4300 m via NE edge, 5A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent); peak 4810 m via N wall, 6A cat. diff. (approximately, first ascent).
  4. Proposed category complexity: 6B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: length 4016 m, ascent — 2608 m, descent — 1498 m. average traverse length — 4116 m. length of sections with V cat. diff. — 565 m, VI cat. diff. — 813 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the first ascent of a 6A category rock climbing route on the Eastern wall of Zholtaya Stena peak (3800 m) in Karavshin gorge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Pamir-Alai, Karavshin Valley, # 5.4.3.
  2. Peak — Yellow Wall 3800 m via the center of the east wall.
  3. Proposed — 6A cat. sl. first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 530 m. route length — 600 m. length of 6B cat. sl. sections — 375 m, 5B cat. sl. — 180 m. average steepness — 79°.
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Climbing report on Peak Yellow Wall via 5B category route on the right part of the wall and the eastern edge.

Siberian Federal District Alpine Championship

High-altitude technical class 2018

Report

on the ascent of Peak Zheltaya Stena, 3800 m via the route (along the right part of the wall and the eastern edge) presumably category 5B complexity by the team from Krasnoyarsk, for the period July 31, 2018.

I. Ascent Passport

### 1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderProkofiev D.E. (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsPolunin V.L. (MS)
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Description of a challenging alpine route with illustrations of key sections.

Technical photo of the route General view of the route Passing the cornice on the section R0–R1 Section R2–R3

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First ascent via the left part of the eastern wall of "Yellow Wall" peak in Karavshin valley, Kyrgyzstan, cat. 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Area — Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin Valley (Kara-Su river basin) 5.4.3.
  2. Peak — Yellow Wall, via the left part of the east wall
  3. Proposed — 5A category, first ascent
  4. Route type — rock climbing
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain of the main section — 600 m, route length — 800 m. length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 120 m, 5th category — 280 m
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Description of a challenging climbing route on a wall with numerous traverses and complex technical sections.

1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4 "Mer­esyev", IX — IX, A3

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Report on the passage of category 2B route to the summit of Zheltoy Steny (Yellow Wall) via the fault of the eastern wall in the Kara-Shiro gorge.

Peak Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall)

4050 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall) via the fault of the eastern wall. "2B", (climbing) Participants:

  • Temerev I.M.
  • Temereva E.O. Tomsk – 2014
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