Bureya Region

Traverse of the peaks Coya and Khabarovsk Alpinists, cat. 2A, 6-7 hours, ridge route with dense firn and piton belay.

Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge: Insurance is simultaneous. Movement is in crampons. After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on". The use of pitons or camming devices is possible. The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance. 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

### Ascent via the Right Edge of the Eastern Ridge of Tsoy Peak, Category 4A Detailed guide to climbing Tsoy Peak via its Eastern Ridge's right edge, a route classified as category 4A. The description includes critical sections, required equipment, and essential safety recommendations.

via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours. Then: Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope; further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m; at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition; then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;

Description of the route along the left edge of the East ridge of Mount Tsoya, category 2B complexity, with details of the passage and equipment recommendations.

Left edge of the E ridge, 2B Right edge of the E ridge, 4A Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis. At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge. The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m). Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it: on the right along the slabs, or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).

Description of the Category 1B route to the summits of Khabarovsk Alpinistok (2166 m) and Ulun (2221 m) with recommendations on equipment and ascent tactics.

Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge: rocky, fairly narrow; drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep; partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement; features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Fregat via the central counterfort, category 2B difficulty level, with safety and equipment recommendations.

Route Descriptions for Climbing Fregat Peak Via the Central Counterfort, Category 2B From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Ulun River towards Fregat Peak, heading towards the central counterfort. After 1 hour, start ascending via the couloir, keeping to its right side. In the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper, leading to a wide snow-ice chimney. Climbing is tense. In the upper part of the chimney, there are "live," slightly overhanging, crosswise blocks that require careful passage. It is recommended to set up a station or belay above them, in the lower part of a small chimney that leads to the ridge. Further movement is possible: Simultaneous or alternating movement to the gendarme (the first key point of the route). A sloping shelf to the right of it transitions into a steep, snow-covered wall with ice in the crevices. After passing it, we enter a steep internal angle with smooth walls, leading to the top of the gendarme, where a station needs to be set up. Subsequent movement occurs strictly along the ridge, requiring accuracy and attention. After the ridge, depending on the route's condition, one can: Go through an icy chimney with a transition to the wall and ascend it to the left, Or move along the right wall of the chimney, only reaching the wall in its upper part. The last 40 meters of the counterfort, as well as further movement along the ridge to the summit, must be done in alternating steps, carefully belaying, as a fall from here could have the most severe consequences.

Description of category 1B complexity route via Edelweiss pass along the Eastern ridge with a detailed analysis of the path sections and descent recommendations.

Edelweiss Pass Route Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak Descent from the Routes Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes. | Section | Length | Steepness, ° | Description | | :------ | :----- | :----------- | :--------------------------- | | R0–R1 | 80 m | 25° | Old snow | | R1–R2 | 100 m | 30° | Steep slope |

**Description of the 1B category complexity route via Edelweiss Pass**, with a detailed analysis of the path sections and recommendations for passage.

Through Edelweiss Pass, Category 1B | Section | Length | Steepness | Difficulty | Description | | :------ | :----: | :-------: | :--------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | R0–R1 | 250 | 30–40 | 1–2 | Pressing against the left edge, upper part | | R1–R2 | 300 | 25 | 1 | Snow cornices on the right for the entire length of the section; move along the slope upwards at a distance of 10–15 m from the ridge. Simultaneously. | | R2–R3 | 8 | 45 | 2 | Bypass the cornice. Alternating belay. | | R3–R4 | 450 | | 1 | Simultaneous movement along the ridge, belay over the ridge. Three distinct pinnacles. The first is bypassed on the right. The second — on the left. | | R4–R5 | 10 | 48 | 2 | The third pinnacle of the ridge is climbed head-on along an inclined edge. Alternating belay. Loose rocks. | | R5–R6 | 50 | | 1 | Pre-summit rise along the ridge. | It is recommended to start the ascent before 7:00 AM. In this case, the pass is overcome before it is exposed to the sun.

Ascent via the left edge of the central buttress of the Central wall of v. Omut, category 3B complexity, with a description of key sections and necessary precautions.

Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further: A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO. The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section: Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds. Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.

Ascent to Mt. Omot via the right edge of the central counterfort of the NW wall, category 3A complexity, route description and equipment recommendations.

Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff. From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further: 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall, the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to: ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters, then move to the right slab, moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

Ascent to Mt. Morion Vostochny via the North Counterfort, category 2A, with route description, safety assessment, and gear recommendations.

Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m) Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further: Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route. The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions. After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further: