Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B

The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours.

From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice.

The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category, but it's destroyed.

I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids.

In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed.

The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.

Through the gap, we climb out onto a ridge and walk to the start of the third rope. The third rope begins up a corner on the right. Landmarks: a distinctive "carrot" and a wedge.

After a ledge with an original hook, we continue climbing on the right part and then come out onto an edge. Along the edge, we climb out onto a good ledge, ending the third rope.

The fourth rope goes to the right, bypassing rocky towers with uninteresting terrain. Climbing is fifth category with a bit of A1 with some artificial aids.

The fifth rope:

• comes out into a gap on the ridge;
• continues up a steep wall on the left part of the ridge;
• lots of original hardware, "carrots", and hooks.

Options for finishing the fifth rope:

• on a small ledge before turning right into a gully;
• in the gully, on an original loop.

The sixth rope:

• exits the gully to the left onto an edge;
• follows simple but heavily snowed-in rocks along the edge to a wall on a good ledge with an original hook;
• turns right following the ridge;
• finishes just below the start of a steep wall on the left following the ridge.

The seventh rope:

• begins on a steep wall with lots of original hardware;
• then transitions into a corner filled with ice;
• climbing is fifth category and A1 with some artificial aids;
• in the middle of the seventh rope, there's a fork.

Logically, it looks like climbing up to the right onto the edge of the ridge, but there awaits the most difficult section. An anchor wall with A3 artificial aids.

The authentic route:

• turns left to bypass this tower
• the bypass is not clearly visible, and you need to climb a bit to the left to see it
• climbing is fifth category, but also with destruction and snow

The eighth rope:

• goes from right to left up a steep wall
• comes out onto an edge with a section of unpleasant snowy terrain
• climbing plus simple artificial aids

The ninth rope follows the edge. Climbing plus simple artificial aids.

The tenth rope:

• follows the edge, approaches a tower with a wide chimney in the middle
• climbs to the left, bypassing the tower
• up a steep snowy-rock slope, it leads out onto the ridge

On the right on a "bald" spot, there will be an original rappel loop made of two blue ropes. The eleventh rope follows the edge — climbing plus simple artificial aids — and comes out onto the crest, where it joins route 45. Further along the crest, two ropes of third-category climbing lead to the summit. It's more convenient to descend via the ascent route using original loops.

On the crest:

• a stopper with a loop;
• two original loops under short ropes.

From the loop on the "bald" spot, there are loops for a 60m rappel down to the ice. During descent on the ice, you can alternate between original loops on the rocks.

Summary:

• a solid classic alpine fifth category route;
• excellent terrain for protection everywhere except the key wall, which can be avoided;
• the only problem is snow coverage;
• all stations are on normal ledges;
• no problems with ledges for overnight stays either;
• the hardware is all usable;
• the route is practically absolutely safe from rockfall;
• the only risk of rockfall is on rappels towards the ice couloir.