East European Highlands

Mountain range125,266.10 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the "Chelebi-6" climbing route in Crimea, including information on routes of varying difficulty and a detailed description of the Bershov route of 5B category of difficulty.

Chelebi — 6

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Od­es­sa

Che­le­bi, Cri­mea. De­scrip­tions of al­pi­nist routes

The Che­le­bi massif is lo­cat­ed in the west­ern part of the Main Ridge of the Cri­mean Moun­tains, be­tween the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il­yas-Ka­ya moun­tain. Rel­a­tive height is 200 m, ab­so­lute height is 600 m above sea lev­el. De­spite the mod­est height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th dif­fi­cul­ty grade are laid through the cen­tral part of the wall. The routes are very pop­u­lar (for ex­am­ple, the Ber­shov route, there are sev­er­al as­cends per day). De­scent from the wall is pos­si­ble both left and right. The left path (if look­ing to­wards the sea) is short­er:

  • Walk along the yay­la along the cliff to­wards Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the de­scend­ing cou­loir there is a group of trees.
  • Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
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Ascent via the southwestern wall of Peak Komosomola in the Pamirs, category 6A, passage by a team of experienced climbers.

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The "Pavlova" route is rated 5A, runs along a monolithic wall, and includes rock climbing with belays using old pitons and anchors.

Route №16 «Pavlova»

5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:

  • 10 m — I
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Route Description: Экстрим

SummitMateSSummitMate
14 days ago

The route to the top of Chelebi with a detailed description and photographs for climbers and mountain tourists.

Che­le­bi — 16

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The "Belka" route on the Chelebi bastion, difficulty category A2, with a description of the passage and key relief elements.

«Belka»

The route passes in the left part of the Chelebi bastion. The start is to the left of the «Strelka» Suslov's route, approximately twenty meters away. Up a vertical internal corner between two slabs:

  • free climbing 5 cat. diff. — 10 m to a ledge (on the first two pitons, loops hang for orientation).
  • from the ledge 15–20 m up a thin crack and so on A2 (skyhooks may be needed) to a rusty ledge. On the rusty ledge, it's possible to make a station (there's an old rusty piton with a loop, approximately 30 m from the ground). From the ledge upwards, first along the crack, then skyhooks in the direction of the cornice. The cornice is passed in the left part. Behind the cornice, to the right, to a good crack. On the second drilled hole, there's a station. The section is 30 m and A2. There are six drilled pitons:
  • The lower one is rusty, left over from Suslov's attempt. Then, along good cracks, straight up in the direction of the white internal corner. местами лазание, местами и.т.о. A1. The section is 40 m. The station is at the base of the white internal corner, there's a drilled piton. Up the corner 20 m and A2 to the junction with «Strelka».
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Description of mountaineering routes in the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including the complexity and details of passing routes of various categories of difficulty.

Chelebi — 4

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of mountaineering routes The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie Vorota" pass and Ilias-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite its relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, Bershov's route, there are sometimes several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right:

  • The left path (if you look at the sea) is shorter: you need to go along the yayla along the cliff towards the Baidarskie Vorota for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the descent couloir, a group of trees grows.
  • Down the steep scree, then to the right along the wall.
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Description of mountaineering routes on the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including detailed characteristics and complexity assessments of the routes.

Chelebi — 7

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Ber­shov route, there can be several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

  • Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Bai­dar Gates for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
  • Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
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Description of mountaineering routes in the Chelebi massif in Crimea, including route characteristics and details of passage.

Chelebi — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main ridge of the Crimean mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. Relative height 200 m, absolute height 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty pass through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (e.g., Bershov's route, there are several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

  • Follow the yayla along the cliff towards the Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta for about 600–700 m.
  • Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
  • Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
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The "Scolopendra" route (5B) to Chelebi peak (657 m) with a detailed description and technical details.

Chelebi (657 m). Scolopendra

Massif: Chelebi (657 m) Difficulty: 5B Author: Lavrinenko A., Polyakov M. Route description:

  • 0–1 Start — behind a large rock standing near the wall, upwards through cracks, in the direction of a large tree, the rightmost one. Near the tree — a belay station, a comfortable ledge. 27 m IV 2–3 Upwards through a system of corners, climbing + ITO, there are holes for skyhooks, 2 bolts, exit onto a destroyed ledge, here is a bolt. From it, upwards to the right, careful climbing, to a tree. On the tree, a belay station.
  • 50 m
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Route Description: Зуб

SummitMateSSummitMate
14 days ago

Ascent to the summit of the mountain, description of the route of the 11th category of complexity, including complex rock and ice sections.

11

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