Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further:

• A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
• The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:
• Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
• Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.

Via the right edge of the central buttress of the Northwest wall, 3A cat. diff.

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Oмот river towards the Northwest wall of Oмот peak. After 1 hour, start ascending via a couloir, keeping direction towards the right edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress are bypassed on the right, approaching the key section of the route — a 15-meter wall and a 25-meter chimney with a small cornice after it. Pass the wall from left to right; the chimney — head-on with a deviation to the right in its upper part. 5–7 meters of climbing up the wall with cracks, at the junction with a steep snowy couloir, it is recommended to set up a station. After 20 meters of careful climbing on ice-covered and moss-grown rocks, we reach the ridge of the buttress. Further:

• 40 meters of uncomplicated but steep ascent lead to a 5-meter wall,
• the wall is passed head-on with simultaneous bypassing of a gendarme on the ridge to the right. Passing the next two inclined slabs and the chimney between them requires attentiveness, as a fall can result in a significant drop. It is recommended to:
• ascend the chimney by 2–3 meters,
• then move to the right slab,
• moving right and upwards, reach uncomplicated rocks. After 100 meters of easy ridge movement, approach an inclined, ice-covered slab with an internal angle adjoining it on the right. It is necessary to overcome the slab, ascending as close to the angle as possible, using its overhanging parts for support and fractures for anchor points.

7. Ascent Routes on Mt. Morion Vostochny (2125 m)

Via the North Spur, Cat. 2A

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Uluun River towards Mt. Morion. After 1 hour, begin ascending the couloir between Mt. Morion and Mt. Morion Vostochny, keeping to its left side. Bypass the initial, straightforward rocks of the spur on the right, then ascend onto the spur and continue up to the rocks. Movement is simultaneous. Further:

• Traverse across snow-covered slabs under a steep wall with fractures on the left and right parts — the first critical section of the route.
• The start of this section can be done from either the right or left, depending on the route conditions.
• After 15 meters, both paths converge before a 10-meter snow-filled internal angle; careful passage through this angle brings you to the left side of the spur, where belays can be organized. Continuing with alternating movement along the sharp, steep, and snowy ridge demands caution and the ability to set up belay points without halting. Before the second critical section — a wall with a vertical crack — it is necessary to establish a reliable belay station, as a fall could result in dropping into a steep couloir on the left. The wall must be ascended via the vertical crack, which accommodates good placements for nuts and cams. It is not recommended to bypass the wall on the left due to smooth, snowy rocks with minimal handholds and cracks. Further:

v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A 3. via the left edge of 3rd counterfort, 3A 4. via the right S.-W. counterfort, 2B 5. via the W. wall, 3B 6. via the right W. counterfort, 3B

Via the right Western counterfort, category 3B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20-25 minutes of movement, begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the left of the rightmost counterfort of the summit. Having gone about 300 m, exit to the left onto the rocks of the western counterfort and approach the wall along large snowy, in some places icy, inclined slabs. The station is on the archa. Start with 10 m up the inner corner on the right, then move along gentle ledges under a small 5 m 80° wall, from which exit onto inclined slabs under the key section. It is passed through a clear gap in the right part of the wall, with an exit then into an inner corner. There are places with ice and a couple of "hourglasses." Then, bypassing the drop on the left, ascend to the saddle along the right side of the counterfort via inclined slabs, to the left of which is a control cairn under the wall. From the saddle, traverse right for 10 m to exit into a snowy chimney on the southern wall and climb back onto the counterfort. Having passed a three-meter step, move left along a horizontal ledge, and then ascend to the South ridge along the left side of the counterfort, bypassing its "fence." To the right, the counterfort drops steeply down. Having reached the ridge, move left towards Mt. Ermolaeva. The duration of the main part of the ascent is 4-5 hours. Descent is via route 1B along the South ridge.

2. via N.-W. ridge, 2A category 3. via left edge, 3A category 4. via right S.-W. ridge, 2B category 5. via W. wall, 3B category 6. via right W. ridge, 3B category

Via Western wall, 3B category of difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of Ulu'n river. After 20–25 minutes of movement, start climbing up a snowy couloir to the right of the western counterfort. Move along the right side of the couloir. Approach the heavily snow-covered "ram foreheads" at the beginning of the route. Then proceed in a rope team. Bypass the "ram foreheads" from the left along the ledge and ascend simple rocks to a snowy isthmus. Here is a control cairn on the wall in a tin can. The ascent time to the snowy isthmus from the base camp is 1 hour. From the control cairn, to the left of a large chimney with ice, begins an 80-meter key section of the wall:

• First, make a difficult 8-meter traverse to the left with a slight gain in height.

Routes

3. Via the left edge, 3rd cat. of diff., 3A
4. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2B
5. Via the 3rd wall, 3B
6. Via the right 3rd cat. of diff., 3B
7. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2A
8. Via the S. ridge

Via the left edge of the Western counterfort, 3A cat. of diff.

Begin the approach along the right tributary of the Uluun River, and after 5–7 minutes, having crossed the river, start ascending up and to the left along the slope towards a large wall at the beginning of the edge. Gradually, the steepness increases to 30°. From the base camp to the start of the route — 30 min.

Via Western spur, Cat. II

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Uluun River. Begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the right of the Western spur, sticking to the rocks. After 30 minutes, exit left onto the spur, which consists of snowy, non-technical rocks. After 80 m, the ridge becomes steeper. Approach an 8-meter wall, in front of which, lower on the ridge, a control cairn is built. The wall is climbed by alternating movement up to the left. Continue along the not-so-steep ridge for 65 m. A small 5-meter wall is encountered. The ridge turns left and abuts a 7-meter wall, to the right of which there are internal corners and large walls. Move up one of the internal corners with alternating belays. Continue with simultaneous movement along the ridge, which drops off to the right with large walls up to 60 m deep. Moving along the ridge, reach the walls of a "gendarme," which is climbed from right to left via small walls and an internal corner (first crux). Climbing is quite challenging for winter conditions; hook belays with rope protection are required. To the right, 80-meter walls with a frozen waterfall between them are visible. After passing the crux, move 55 m with simultaneous belays along the ridge. The ridge is snowy; then exit onto inclined snowy slabs. Hook belays with rope protection are necessary (second crux). After 30 m, enter a wide snowy chimney; after 50 m of movement through it, exit back onto the ridge. Small "gendarme" features on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. After 80 m, approach an 8-meter internal corner and a 15-meter wall above it. After passing them, exit back onto a gentle ridge leading to the summit. Descend from the summit via the Category I route. Total ascent time is 5-6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment