East Asia
Route Description: правому ЮЗ кф.
### Climbing Route Description Details the ascent route via the right South-West buttress, categorized as 2A complexity. Includes approach details, key climb sections, safety assessments, and gear recommendations.
2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A cat.
3. via left edge, 3A cat.
4. via right S.-W. counterfort, 2B cat.
5. via W. wall, 3B cat.
6. via right W. counterfort, 3B cat.
Ascent via right South-West counterfort, 2A cat.
The approach from the base camp to the start of the ascent takes 20–25 minutes (see the description of the ascent route along the South ridge, 1B cat.). The beginning of the ascent along the counterfort is a snowy slope 150 m long. In the middle of the slope, on the right side, there is a dangerous section - an avalanche-prone couloir, it should be crossed from left to right, and it is necessary to pass it before 7:00 am. Then it is necessary to traverse a 40 m long snow corrie. Further, 100 m along a heavily snowy ridge to the beginning of the difficult key section of the route. Pass 40 m through the chimney on the left, bypassing the forked gendarme, into a two-meter gap. The gap should be bypassed on the right. Then 40 m between the walls, through the chimney. After it, pass 20 m to the exit to the pre-summit ridge. And along it 120 m to the summit. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Descent along the South ridge, via the 1B cat. route.
Safety assessment of the route
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Ascent via the North-West Buttress, 2A difficulty grade, lasting 4-4.5 hours, with a possible avalanche risk in the couloirs.
2. via N.-W. buttress, 2A
3. via left edge 3A
4. via right S.-W. buttress, 2B
5. via W. wall, 3B
6. via right W. buttress, 3B
Via North-Western Buttress, category 2A
The route is the closest from the base camp. Begin the ascent along the right tributary of the Uluun river, after 5-7 minutes, and after crossing the river, start climbing up to the right along the slope with a gradual exit to the North-Western buttress. The steepness of the buttress gradually increases. The movement takes place on snowy, uncomplicated rocks. After an hour of ascent, the buttress flattens out significantly and turns into a forty-meter snowy ridge. Further movement is carried out directly along the buttress on snowy uncomplicated rocks with simultaneous belay. After 30-35 m:
- On a three-meter inclined plate, hook belay with alternate movement is necessary.
- Above the plate, there is a snowy shelf convenient for belay.
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the climbing route with 1B category of complexity to the summit of Ermolaeva (2158 m) via the southern ridge in the Badzhal Range.
Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge — Vodolazko S.I. "Badzhal Range"
II A C II O P T I. Combined route. 2. Badzhal Range, Ulun gorge. 3. v. Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge. 4. Proposed — 1B cat. diff. first ascent. 5. Height difference: 350 m, length — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 6. Pitons left on the route — none. Used previously driven pitons and not knocked out — none. 7. Travel hours — 5 hours. 8. Overnights: in the base camp at the confluence of the tributaries of the Ulun River.