209. Latsha via the East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac at the Garvash Pass (route 205), turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of Latsha's East Ridge via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up simple, then moderately difficult (with protection) rocks of the East Ridge to the "Paltsev" gendarme. Bypass the "Paltsev" on the left and continue up moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From under the second ascent:

• 20 m along a ledge to the left,
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (with pitons) to the ascent,
• 150 m along the narrow snow-and-ice (with cornices) East Ridge to the third ascent. Overcome the third ascent directly up 20-meter moderately difficult rocks (with pitons). Continue along:
• 400–500-meter snow-and-ice East Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Latsha. From Garvash Pass — 5-6 hours.

210. Latsha from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205), ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-and-ice, then simple but crumbling rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanches, protection) to the East Ridge (with cornices) of Latsha.

209. Latsga via East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the starting bivouac of the Garvash Pass (route 205) turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of the East Ridge of Latsga peak via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up the easy, then moderately difficult (belay required) rocks of the East Ridge to the “Finger” rock pinnacle. Bypass the “Finger” on the left and continue on the moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From below the second ascent:

• 20 m along the ledge leftward
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (pitons) to the ascent
• 150 m along the narrow snow-ice ridge (cornices) of the East Ridge to the third ascent, which is overcome directly via 20 m of moderately difficult rocks (pitons). Then along:
• 400–500 m long snow-ice East Ridge (cornices) ascend to the summit of Latsga. From the Garvash Pass – 5-6 hours.

210. Latsga from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205) ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-ice, then easy but destroyed rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanche risk, belay required) to the East Ridge (cornices) of Latsga peak.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT TYPE — rock climbing
2. ASCENT REGION — Main Caucasus Range between Garvash and Jantugan passes
3. PEAK — Latsga (3980 m) via the southern ridge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — ridge ascent with a height difference of 560 m, average steepness of 45°
6. PITONS DRIVEN — 8 rock pitons for belaying
7. TIME TAKEN — 8 hours 30 minutes from the start of the route to the summit (group of 6 people)
8. NUMBER AND CHARACTERISTICS OF NIGHTS SPENT — no convenient places for overnight stays; it is possible to set up one tent approximately at the middle part of the route (beyond the "black triangle")
9. ASCENT LEADER: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS — rock
2. ASCENT AREA — Main Caucasus Range between GARVASH and DZHANTUGAN passes
3. PEAK, ROUTE — LATZGA (3996 m) via south-eastern counterfort
4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 4B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — rock, via counterfort, height difference — 455 m, average steepness 75°
6. NUMBER OF PITS HAMMERED — 22 rock anchors, for belay
7. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS — from the start of the route to the summit 12.5 h
8. NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS — no comfortable places on the route, one tent can be set up at I and II control sections
9. ASCENT LEADER: Novikov S.A. — Pr

Вер­ши­на Че­гет-Тау

ET-TAV-UA­HA

00 м

1. вер­ши­на 4100 м becomes Peak Cheget-Tau