Kavkaz

Report on the first ascent of a Category 3B route on the North face of Pik Kavkaz Centralny (4105 m) in August 2019 by a team from the Technolog Alpine Club.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Tsentralny (4105 m) - the first ascent of the route via the North slope, category 3B, by the team of alpine club "Tekhnolog" on August 2, 2019. Participants: Barabashov A.A. Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2020 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Barabashov Anton Alekseevich, Master of Sports |

Report on the first ascent of a category 3A route on the North-Eastern wall of peak Kavkaz West (4037 m) in February 2020.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Zapadny (4037 m) — first passage of the route via the North-Eastern wall, cat. diff. 3A by the team St. Petersburg-2 from February 2 to 3, 2020. I. Ascent Report | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-----------------------------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nikolayev Yuriy Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Bogdanov Kirill Anatolyevich — 1st sports rank2. Eliseev Sergey Gennadyevich — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Erofeev Sergey Andreyevich — Candidate Master of Sports | | 1.4 | Organization | Alpine club "Tekhnolog" (St. Petersburg team) | | | 2. Characteristics of the ascent object | |

Description of the first ascent of category 4A route to the Western summit of peak Kavkaz via the South-Eastern counterfort.

Climbing type — rock climbing Central Caucasus. Shkhelda gorge (Double Glacier area) Peak Kavkaz 4037 m via the SE buttress. Difficulty category — 4A Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 320 m; b) length of section R1–R2 — 40 m; c) average steepness — 60–65° Number of pitons hammered — 26 pcs. Climbing hours — 14 (including approach through Double Glacier)

Ascent to the summit via Maria Rota's route, path description, key moments, and technical information for climbers.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ROUTE SCHEME Peak Kavkaz, 4037 m via NW wall, left | Sections | Length, m | Angle, ° | Diff. grade | | :------- | :-------- | :------- | :---------- | | P8–P9 | 80 | 5 | I | | P7–P8 | 120 | 30–40 | III | | P6–P7 | 20 | 0 | I |

Ascent to the peak of Caucasus via the South-West ridge (2A category of difficulty) from the Shhelda alpine camp through the Shhelda saddle.

Peak Caucasus via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the Double Glacier is described in route 111. Across the Double Glacier straight up to its bifurcation. Then ascent (with crampons!) up the steep icefall of the right glacier branch. At the end of the ascent, exit left onto the easy rocks of the ridge dividing the glacier into two parts, and ascend to the sites (there is water). From the sites (without backpacks): Exit to the upper ice-snow plateau Movement across the plateau and a small snowy slope Ascent to the Shheldinsky Pass (0.5 hours from the sites; 8-10 hours from the Shhelda alpine camp). From the pass: Left and up a snowy couloir to ascend to the Southwest Ridge of Peak Caucasus East. Movement along the easy, in places moderately difficult, broken and snow-covered rocks of the ridge - to a site below the pre-summit wall.

Traverse p. Volnaya Spain — v. Vzhdukh, 4A cat. diff., with a detailed description of the challenging route and descent specifics.

п. Volnaya Ispania — в. Vjedukh. 4А cat. diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п. Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер. Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.