Fig. 35 166. Adai (4404 m) via the East Ridge (a combined route by O. Shuster, Category III) From the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people), follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River upstream. After passing the "Green" hill, exit the left-bank moraine of the Skazsky Glacier onto the glacier. Cross to the right:

• the glacier,
• a destroyed, grass-covered rocky slope,
• and approach a rocky couloir. Here, turn left and move straight up the couloir (possible rockfall). Exit the couloir onto the left destroyed rocky slope. Ascend it, then a snowfield, and further up destroyed rocks to reach the platforms (Skazskie overnight stays) at the level of the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier. These platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the CSP of the Tsey region, 4-5 hours. From the platforms, descend to the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier and, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the ice-snow slope of the wide saddle of the Skazsky Pass. From the plateau:
• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,

ADAI VIA THE EASTERN WALL

(combined route, category 4A difficulty) Path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the entrance bivouac on the sites with an exit to the upper snow plateau of the Skazskiy glacier. From the sites (departure at 2–3 a.m. due to rockfall in the lower part of the route) having passed onto the glacier plateau in the direction of the Skazskiy pass 3000, turn right and approach the lowest rocks on the right side of the entire rock belt — the Eastern wall of Adai peak, to the left of the wide snowy slope-gully descending from the peak and its North ridge, dangerous due to rockfall and avalanches. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, exit onto the rocks of the rock belt of the Eastern wall. Through simple and moderately difficult sections of the lower belt (the lower rocks can be bypassed via the snowy slope on the right), then via the snowy slope ascend up to the left, onto the snow-covered lower base of the rock belt. From the shoulder — ascent via snow, then via simple and moderately difficult ruined rocks descend to the left to the lower walls of the Central belt. Above the walls, via steep ruined rocks of moderate difficulty of the lying edge, then via a 10–12 m wall (“live” rocks, piton belay), further 150 m via simple and moderately difficult ruined steep snowy (rockfall possible!) alternating with ice-snow slopes approach the rocky ascent of the Central belt. Traverse the ascent via smooth rocks (moderately difficult) of the internal corner (piton belay) with an exit from it onto the right edge of the triangular gray rocky pre-summit belt.

V. Adai — Hoh via Eastern Wall, cat. 4A

• R0–R3 120 m 35° 2+
• R3 40 m 40° 3
• R4 60 m 50° 4
• R5–R7 140 m 50° 3+
• R7 70 m 55° 4+
• R8–R10 120 m 45° 3+
• R10 180 m 35°–40° 3+

3. ADAI VIA NORTH-WEST FACE The route is combined, category 4B. From the CSP of Tsey Region, take the road, then the trail to the ice camps on Tsey Glacier, then ascend to the "ram's foreheads" (north-western part of Tsey Icefall). Overnight on the medial moraine above the "ram's foreheads". Break camp after 3-4 hours. Move towards the large snowy couloir descending from Adai-Hohh massif. Ascend through a crevasse and the lower bergschrund on the ice-snow slope (separate couloirs detected) towards the rightmost couloir arm, overcoming crevasses, ascend 120 m to the bergschrund. Exit via a rocky ledge resembling a crevice, turn right onto a rocky counterfort (40 m). From the bivouac - 3 hours. Ascend rocky terrain of medium difficulty to the I ascent of the counterfort, then to the ridge (broken rocks) below the 2nd ascent of the counterfort (I control point). From exiting onto the counterfort - 2 hours. To the 2nd ascent - ascend rocky sections, at the end of the ascent - exit onto the ridge (4-5 ropes). 2-3 ropes - to the 2nd control cairn. From I control cairn - 2 hours. From the 2nd control cairn, follow the horizontal ridge to reach below the large lower angle. Exit into the angle via a ledge below the wall (snow-covered, possible rope installation). The angle is traversed on the left side via broken rocks, ascend through the center of the angle on ice (2 ropes). Here is the 3rd control cairn. From the 3rd control cairn - 2.5-3 hours. Then ascend the 3rd ascent:

• 40 m - broken rocks,
• 80 m - snow,
• 60 m - rocks.

¹

Footnotes

1. 11Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints: Large I II Ш gendarme with quartz vein ↩

ADAM 4B

VIA NORTH-WESTERN WALL

R12–R11 300 m 25–30° 3 SNOW-ICE RIDGE R10–R11 80 m 40° 3 BROKEN ROCK R9–R10 100 m 50° 4 ICE R8–R9 60 m 45° 3–4 BROKEN ROCK

210. The Big Tsey horseshoe (Adai — Ulargee — Zaromag) (a combined route by K. Korolev, 5B cat. of difficulty). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (a group of 4–8 people) to the Adai summit is described in route 166. From the Adai summit, descend down the ice-and-snow SW ridge to the first group of rocks, which are bypassed on the right. Then, 40 m down the steep ice-and-snow slope on the right side of the ridge. Then traverse down to the right along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the snow SW ridge. Along the snow ridge with rocky sections of medium difficulty in the lower part, approach the steep rocky ridge. Along the steep, heavily destroyed, simple and medium difficulty rocky ridge descend to a long, gentle ice-and-snow SW ridge, along which approach the rocky "saw". From under the "saw", descend from the ridge 40–50 m to the left and along the ledges, simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the ridge, bypass the "saw" by traversing. Behind it, ascend to the platform of the snow col between the SW ridge of Adai summit and the gendarme "ZIL" of the E ridge of Zaromag summit. From Adai summit — 6–8 hours. From the col, along the wide (80–100 m), steep ridge, approach under the wall of the "ZIL" gendarme. Along the rocks of above medium difficulty on the right side of the wall — ascent to the ridge and along it — exit to the "ZIL" gendarme. The further path to Zaromag summit along the E ridge is described in route 178. From Zaromag, descend along the simple, short, gentle rocky, then snow 200-meter W ridge. Further:

• Descend to the left along the narrow, steep ice-and-snow 300–400-meter couloir, bypassing the rocky drop of the ridge.
• From the couloir, traverse to the right along the snow-covered rocky slopes to exit to the ridge connector.
• From the connector, along the boundary of ice and rocks, bypass two small gendarmes on the left and behind them exit to the col of the snow ridge.