False Sugan

The summit of False Sugan (3900 m) is located in the ridge-crutch connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of South Sugan to the south and (beyond the Gülchi pass) Sugan-Tau to the north. The summit is snow-covered, its rocky slopes and ridges are simple, heavily destroyed. The only ridge route, laid from the Gülchi pass, was climbed on August 17, 1933, by N. Moroz, A. Zhukov, A. Gerasimov, K. Rossiy.

46. False Sugan via North Ridge (combined route, III category of difficulty, fig. 2, 12).

From a large boulder in the upper left corner of the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) traverse:

• left-upwards through the grassy and talus slopes of the Nakhashbita massif,
• the middle part of the moraine deposits of the Maly Nakhashbita glacier,
• then a grassy slope under the walls of the South ridge of the South Doppakh peak. Bypassing the ridge of South Doppakh from the left, ascend a steep grassy slope 300 m to the right to the terminal moraine of the Doppakh glacier (rockfall possible from the slopes of the peaks when approaching the Doppakh glacier). The moraine of the Doppakh glacier can also be reached along the right bank of the Orsdon river. Then ascend the right-bank moraine, then exit left onto the Doppakh glacier and traverse along the moraine to its end. From here, ascend the glacier, crossing it to the left, to the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort descending from the South ridge of the Sugan-Tau peak, to the right of the visible Gülchi pass. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 3-4 hours. On the platforms - initial bivouac.

Fig. 12

Fig. 11 39. Sugan Uzlovoy via the Western ridge (M. Roginsky's combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 44 and 46, and the path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan glacier is described in route 48. On the Sugan glacier plateau:

• Approach Sugan-2 pass (between Sugantau peak on the right and Uzlovoy Sugan

South Sugan

South Sugan (3900 m) is a small peak in the ridge connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of Shtulu to the south and False Sugan to the north. The slopes of the peak are home to:

• Western glaciers - snowfields that feed the Akhsu river
• Eastern glaciers - snowfields that feed the Orsdon river Technically simple, heavily destroyed South Sugan is rarely visited by climbers (mainly during traverse with False Sugan). The only route was climbed on August 4, 1929, by L. Gasparotto, U. Vallepiano, K. Geron, G. Zinger.

47. South Sugan via the South ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-20 people) to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier is described in route 46. From here, ascend the moraine to the tongue of the Doppakh glacier and cross it to the left in the direction of a small snow slope under the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak. After crossing the glacier, cross a small stream flowing from under the small hanging Soldier glacier, which is located under the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of South Sugan to the left and False Sugan to the right. Then traverse left - up the scree slopes of the southeastern slopes of the South Sugan peak, in the direction of a large snowfield under the saddle of the South ridge of the peak. Up the snowfield, straight up, then up the gentle ("live") rocks (insurance) - ascent of 50-60 m to the saddle of the South ridge of the South Sugan peak.

57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton

56. Sugan Yuzhny — Lozhny (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Sugan is described in route 47. From the summit, descend via a simple snow-covered rocky couloir on the right side of the Northern ridge. Descent along the ridge is also possible but more difficult. From the couloir, traverse steep, partially broken, medium-difficulty (belay required) rocks on the right side of the ridge to reach a saddle below the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly via simple and medium-difficulty rocks to the second saddle. From the saddle, traverse simple and medium-difficulty broken rocks on the right side of the ridge («live» stones — belay required) to bypass the rocky «saw» — several

59. Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:

• 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
• ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
• turn right;
• ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;

58. Sugan Uzlovoy — Maly (Sugaev's combined route, category 5A, fig. 2, 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Uzlovoy Sugan is described in route 39. From the summit:

• descend 60–80 m down simple snow-covered rocks of the steep, narrow southeastern ridge (insurance);
• then along a snowy 30-meter col (cornice) approach the base of the summit tower of Central Sugan;
• from the col, ascend a 9–10-meter slab with few handholds;
• traverse right-up the slope to the ridge, and ascend the ridge to a shoulder;
• from the shoulder, descend 5–6 m;

Fig. 12 43. Sugantau via East Counterforce (combined route by K. Vinogradov, category 3A, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the East counterforce of Sugantau's South ridge, under the right side of Gyulchi pass, is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, until the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Pass through the icefall between the crevasses

Fig. 12 44. Sugantau via the Northeast ridge (combined route by V. Maslov, category 3A, fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the Eastern counterfort of the South ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass saddle is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, to the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Traverse the icefall between the crevices on its left side, following the slopes of Sugantau peak (belay). Beyond the icefall:

• across the closed plateau
• along the gentle snowy slopes of the glacier Reach the Sugan-2 pass saddle, located between Sugantau peak on the left and Uzlovaya Sugan peak on the right. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80-100 m up the steep ice-snow slope (possible rockfall - piton belay). Then, ascend the moderately difficult rocks resembling "ram's foreheads" ("live" rocks - piton belay) to reach the Sugan-2 pass. This is the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 6-8 hours.