Mount Elbrus

Report on the team's ascent to the west summit of Elbrus via the western slope through Utug, describing the route and its technical characteristics.

Report On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus West via the Western slope through Utyug for the category of complexity by the team of the "Maximum" Sports and Alpine Club of Pyatigorsk State University for the period from June 20 to 28, 2020. I. Climbing Report Passport | № | General Information | | | :----: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Svitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Filatov Maxim Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank Mamonova Elena, 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name, sports rank of observer | Vikhlyaev Vladislav Valeryevich, 2nd sports rank | | 1.4 | Full name of coach | Damianiди Ivan Georgievich, Grebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich | | 1.5 | Organization | SAK "Maximum" PSU |

### Crossing Elbrus from the North via Both Summits: Route Overview Detailed analysis of the route, including technical difficulties and required equipment for traversing Elbrus from the north, crossing both its Eastern and Western Summits.

ELBRUS EASTERN AND WESTERN PEAKS TRAVERSE VIA THE SOUTHERN SLOPE 3–4 cat. dif. From the village of Terskol, ascend via the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately crosses to the left side of the southeastern spur of the Elbrus massif into the Azau gorge and gradually ascends to the "95" checkpoint, then to the "105" checkpoint and further to the ice base. The road serpentines can be bypassed via trails in many places, starting from the transformer booth near the village of Terskol. From the village of Terskol, 5–6 hours. From the ice base, descend from the moraine onto the glacier, then make a steep ascent. Continue upwards along the gentle snowy slope, gradually bearing left, moving in a broad snowy hollow until the slope steepness increases sharply (to 30–35°). Here, turn left and, ascending via a traverse onto a snowy rise, after 300–350 m, reach the rocky ridge where the Priyut 11 ( Refuge of Eleven) is located (to the left of the ascent path — hidden crevices). From the ice base, 1.5–2 hours. In summer, the path from the ice base to Priyut 11 is usually marked with wooden stakes every 40–60 m. Another ascent option to Priyut 11 is possible: from Terskol by car to Azau, then via the cable car and from the cable car station upwards along the broken rocks and snowfields — from the station, about 3–3.5 hours. At Priyut 11, it is advisable to have an active acclimatization day with an exit to the Pastukhov rocks.

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Elbrus via the North-West ridge, category 4A route, completed by the Ushba club in 2003.

Passport Combined class. Caucasus, Ullukhursuk gorge in KCR (Lateral Ridge to the north of MRR). Mount Elbrus (West) via the North-West ridge. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty, first ascent ("pp"). Elevation gain: camp №1 4100 m — summit 5642 m = 1542 meters. Distance: 6550 meters. Average slope: 50–55°. Use of protection gear: 33 pieces. Use of ice screws: 20 pieces.

Ascent to the West summit of Elbrus via the West ridge, category of complexity 2B, duration of the route is 4 days.

Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.

Report on the ascent to the summit of Elbrus East (5621 m) from the east via Achkieryachkol lava flow, category 2A.

Report On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m. from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, [email protected] 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, [email protected] 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, [email protected]