Провал Свободной Кореи

Description of the 5B category route to the peak of Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) via the center of the northern wall, climbed by a Tatarstan team in February 2005.

Ascent Passport Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, 7.4. Peak — Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, left of the central "triangle" and via the central couloir of the S wall Category of difficulty — 5B, variation Route character — combined Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 750 m, route length — 985 m, length of 6th category sections — 15 m, 5th category — 765 m, average steepness of the route — 64° Pitons left on the route: total — 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary pitons — 0, including ITO — 0; rock hooks — 12; stoppers — 16; ice screws — 65

Description of the winter ascent to Peak Sv. Korei (4777 m) via the S couloir of the wall, complexity category 5B, with a description of the route and the team's actions.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — winter. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge (O. Grigoryev, 97). Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the N wall couloir (Barbera). Proposed — 5B category of difficulty. Route characteristics: height difference: to the summit — 680 m. length: about 800 m. length of 6th category sections — 80 m, 5th category — 650 m. average steepness to the ridge — 60°

Report on the ascent of the Leningrad team to the summit of Svobodnaya Korea via the Barbera Route, Category III-V.

148 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1991 WINTER CLASS REPORT on the ascent to the summit Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the North wall couloir, category 5B (Barber's route) by the team from the Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee from February 26 to 27, 1991. Team captain — Master of Sports of the USSR Ivanov Valery Anatolyevich Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Addresses Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee

**Peak Svobodnoy Korei, couloir S of the wall, 5B category of complexity, ice-snow route with an altitude difference of 850 m.**

Kyrgyzsky Range, Aksay gorge, section 7.4 Peak Svobodnoy Korei, via the couloir on the S wall Difficulty category — 5B Route character — snow and ice Route height difference — 850 m Route length — 1050 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 70° entire route — 60° Pitons left on the route: total 5

Description of the 5A category difficulty route to Peak Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the central glacier-gully route on the southern wall.

PASSPORT Technical class. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge. Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the central ice couloir on the S wall. Difficulty category — 5A (reference). Height difference — 820 m, length — 1675 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 535 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 20 / 0 | 0 / 0 | 5 / 0 | 60 / 0 |

**Ascent of M. Bashmakov's team to Svobodnaya Korea peak via the ice gully of the North face in Kyrgyz Ala-Too in 1984, first ascent of category 5B complexity.**

PASS I. Technical category Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

Report on the first ascent of the route of 4B category of difficulty on the Izycskatel peak (4400 m) along the southern ridge in the Kyrgyz ridge.

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge. Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m, Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30° Hooks left on the route: total — 0; Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 4B category of difficulty to the summit of Bailiang-Bashi (4700 m) in the North Tien Shan.

PUBLIC ORGANIZATION 8–7.229 (4А) Tyumen Regional Federation of Alpinism Tyumen, phone: 89222621340 Web: www.tyumen-alp.ru, E-mail: [email protected] Outgoing letter dated October 1, 2008, No. 56 Dear colleagues! We ask you to review and take into consideration the report of the TRFA team, which made the first ascent of the route to the summit of Baylyan–Bashi, presumably category 4B. The report is attached. President of TRFA T. T. Gainullin Ascent Passport