Object 18579890
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the Shkhelda alpine camp team on August 15, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the team of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 15, 2022
I. Ascent Log
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Murzich Alexander Yuryevich, 3rd category 2. Kovshik Vladimir Leonidovich, 3rd category 3. Titova Natalia Yuryevna, 3rd category |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKhelda" (alplager "SHKhelda") |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the South Col using the classic route from Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier.
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Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks of MNR from Northeast to Southwest, 3 days, category III complexity, route description, technical information and required equipment.
Route Description: Ю ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent to the peak of MNR, via the south-western route along the eastern edge from Kurmy lake (4A cat. of difficulty), made by the "Adl-Su" tourist group on August 6, 1975.
2. 4.132
REPORT
on the ascent to the peak MNR south-west via the eastern edge from the Kurmy glacier (first ascent, estimated cat. diff. 4A), made by the group of the tourist center “Adyl-Su” on July 6, 1975.
To the CKFA for clarification of the category of difficulty (route No. 184 according to the KTMGВ, cat. diff. 3B).
Map of the ascent area.
DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE
Drive along the road up the Adyl-Su gorge to the “Adyl-Su” hostel of the USSR Ministry of Defense. From the hostel, follow the trail first along steep grassy slopes, and then along the talus to climb to the VTsSPS pass. From the hostel, it takes 3–5 hours. From the pass, descend along the talus slopes to the plateau of the Kurmy glacier below the south-western peak of MNR. From the pass, it takes 30 minutes. Camp on the plateau or on the talus areas below the VTsSPS pass.
TABLE OF ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS
Route Description: Ю ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent via the East Edge of MNR-Okhny peak, complexity category 4B, and analysis of the ascent made by instructors of "Al-Su" mountaineering camp in 1975.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK MNR-SOUTH VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE (4B cat. diff.)
overnight stay on the Kurmy Glacier — ascend a wide scree couloir between the peaks Andyrchi and MNR-South to a standalone rocky "tooth". From it, right into an internal corner (60 meters of medium-difficulty rocks, steepness 60°), leading to the Eastern Ridge. Here, on a ledge, is the 1st control point. Further, bypassing the wall on the right, exit via easy rocks under a chimney. Then, up the right wall of the chimney, along a slab with a ledge, and несложным скалам — выход on a wide ledge (live rocks!). 40 meters from the first control point. From the ledge, left-upwards via easy rocks for 20 meters — exit under a 3-meter wall (steepness 70°). Straight up the wall — exit onto slab-like rocks leading to a saddle between a gendarme and the summit tower (40 meters). At the wall, in a crevice — 2nd control point. From here, complex climbing using artificial points of support (ladder, hook) exit left around the corner and transition to the South wall of the summit tower. Further up via complex rocks with a steepness of 70° to a small site (30 meters). From the site, straight up via steep (60°) rocks with good holds to a small ledge under an overhanging rusty wall (20 meters). The overhanging section is bypassed on the left via a wall with a slit (15 meters, 75°). Then up via an internal corner for 5 meters, traverse right, and further up to a small site (30 meters). From the site, up-right via very difficult rocks — exit onto the summit of peak MNR-South. 6–3 hours from overnight stay. Descent from the summit via route 2B cat. diff. Special equipment for 6 people: main rope 3×40 meters; expendable cordelette — 3 meters; rock hooks — 10 pieces (including 3 channel hooks); carabiners — 10 pieces; ladders — 2 pieces; rock hammers — 2 pieces.
P. MNR (South summit)
Description of the route to the top of VTSSPS-600, category of complexity, technical characteristics and passage features.
Time expenditure: 5 hours. VTSSPS-600 у-8°00' summit —
1200
Route Description: с юга по кулуару В гребня
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of MGP via the North-West wall, description of the route of 5B category of complexity.
в. МГП
(163)
Route Description: с юга по кулуару 3 гребня
SSummitMateAscent to the summit in MPR via couloir 3 of the ridge, category of complexity 2B, route description and technical information.
ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS У И А А (in MNR /DЗ/), from ridge 3 to gully, 2Б category of difficulty — July 14, 1986.
Heights are determined by altimeter, steepness is measured by goniometer.
Route to the summit of M.H.P. (3882 m) with a description of the ascent and descent path.
M.H.P. 3882m.
B. MHP
HOKHAP
Ascent route — Descent route
Route Description: с юга по кулуару 3 гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the summit M.N.R. Yuzhnaya via V.Ts.S.P.S. pass with a detailed description of the path and overcoming difficult sections.
1st day. From the "Phelda" camp the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old corral approximately 1 km from the Jan-tugan hostel. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest areas. After ascending the grassy slope between two forest areas, we come out onto the talus and then along a faintly expressed ridge we ascend to the bivouac site below the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we exit onto the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. We descend along the steep talus onto the Kurmy glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the pilot-shaped ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,