4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m

4.12 44851 Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the USSR Council of Ministers

Climbing Department

![img-1.jpeg]({"width":565,"height":182,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/hIutENbE3ZoiLdcQQ3v6FEeBT8Bipn rXE/img-1.jpeg","id":64770581})

Ascent to the summit of Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" (Helpers)

Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" is located in the southwestern spur of the western ridge of Peak Ficker.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route went along the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obval glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends, and there is a fairly convenient exit onto the ice. The group crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obval glaciers and reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which turns sharply northeast at this point (1 hour). A trail along the moraine (along the stream) leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, the group descended from the moraine of the glacier and moved towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographic) branch of the Abdukagor glacier, divided by a rocky ridge into two parts (30–40 minutes). The icefall was traversed somewhat to the right in the lower part and somewhat to the left in the upper part (in the direction of travel) (1 hour). Above the icefall, three not very steep ascents were traversed, alternating with more gentle sections.

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

Description

Ascent to Peak Peredovoy via the Northwest Edge (First Ascent of the Route)

Geographical Information

Peak Peredovoy (6056 m) is located in the uppermost part of the Fedchenko Glacier area, in the northwest spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge, which branches off to the northwest opposite Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars (see diagram). The northeastern slopes of the spur are steep and hidden by hanging glaciers; the western slopes are less steep and composed of shattered rocks and steep glaciated scree, most of which is covered with snow. The northwestern end of the spur drops steeply towards the Fedchenko Glacier (see photograph of the general view of Peak Peredovoy). The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier have relatively gentle relief with a large number of hidden crevasses. Near the end of the spur, the crevasses are wide and open. Before the ascent described, Peak Peredovoy was climbed twice: by Dobrynin's group (August 12, 1960) and by Miklevich's group, which ascended Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars. Both times the ascent was made from the western slopes - the easiest route for ascent - rated 3B category of difficulty.

Approaches

The approaches to Peak Peredovoy were made via the following route. From the Lower Base Camp (altitude 3900 m), located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier, to the Upper Base Camp on the Fedchenko Glacier (altitude 5000 m) and further to the camp under Peak Revolyutsii (from which the ascent to Peak Revolyutsii by Myshlyaev's group was observed); see diagram.

29

TECHNICAL CLIMBING CATEGORY

REPORT

Paustovsky's report on the ascent of Peak 6150 m / Peak S.A. Lavochkin / via the ice wall of the southwest ridge by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineering team, Pamir, August 1970 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":613,"height":782,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/kiiwctW7YfDTrYuGXfW6in9hITGhWxZz/img-0.jpeg","id":64770347})

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION

The gathering place for the MOS DSO "ZENIT" mountaineers in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolution on the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The goal of the ascent was Peak 6150 m in the southwest ridge of Peak "26 Baku Commissars". The dominant peaks of the area are six-thousanders located in the northern part of the valley:

• Peak Revolution,
• Peak 26 Baku Commissars,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

Technical Description of the Route

2624 The description of the route from base camp "4300" to camp "Peredovoy" is given in the description of the first ascent of Pik Fikker made by a group of the Chelyabinsk expedition of the Zenit Sports Association under the general leadership of Master of Sports of the USSR Levin M.S. From camp "Peredovoy" (see photo 1 and 2), ascend along the rocks via a snow-ice slope covered with calga-spores to the ridge. The slope's steepness is 30–40°. The height gain to the ridge is 300 m. High calga-spores, especially on steep sections, ensure safe movement early in the morning. Movement is in rope teams. Time to ascend to the ridge is 1 hour. Further movement is along the ridge. The ridge is snowy, with protruding rocky outcrops, and is wide. The steepness of the slopes forming it is 40–50°. The steepness of the ridge from the point of ascent to the summit varies from 10–15° to 40–45°. Before reaching the summit, one can move along the talus or to the right along the snowy slope. Movement along the entire path is in rope teams. Time to ascend along the ridge to the summit: 1–1.5 hours. The summit is a dome formed by gently sloping snowy slopes. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding panorama opens up:

• Pik Revolyutsii,
• Pik Fikker,
• Pik 26 Baku Commissars,

Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of:

1. A. V. Abramov
2. G. P. Derovoy
3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasiliev via route 4A cat. diff. in 1967) Release officer — V. G. Tarkhanov — Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor

Central Pamir

Ranges of the Fedchenko Glacier headwaters.

PAMIR. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Peak: Korolyov S.P. 6236 m, from the Sredniy Glacier along the Western ridge, combined. Description of the first ascent made on August 14, 1968 by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the ZENIT Voluntary Sports Society (DSS). Leader: A. Vakhmenin. The description was compiled by A. Vakhmenin Chelyabinsk Regional Federation of Alpinism. — 1968. CENTRAL PAMIR. Scheme of the ridges of the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier.

I. Introduction

Peak 6236 m is located in the northern part of the ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier (see map-diagram). The ridge of the South Group of the Fedchenko Glacier separates the Fedchenko Glacier and the Vitkovsky Glacier, starts approximately opposite the Abdukagor-1 pass, and initially stretches east, and after the peak 6236 m — south. The ridge contains, starting from the northern part:

• peak 5360 m,