Passport

1. Ascent to peak Namangan Komsomolets (conditional name) via the Northwest Buttress of the West Ridge. Type of ascent — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Collector Ridge
3. Peak — Namangan Komsomolets (conditional name), height 4400 m, Northwest Buttress of the West Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics — combined, height difference — 480 m, sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — none, average steepness — 30–35°.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 0
7. Number of travel hours: approach from ABS "Dugoba" to the route — 7 hours, route completed in 5 hours, descent from the summit and return to ABS "Dugoba" — 6 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Peak 4630 m, via the center of the NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 700 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty 130 m, average wall slope 80°
6. Protection anchors installed rock anchors 35, ice anchors 1, used slings with carabiners 21
7. Total climbing time 14.5 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alai Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Terekhova Peak, 4830 m, via the southern ridge.
4. Expected complexity category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference — 650 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 100 m, average steepness of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | for belaying | for creating artificial footholds | | :----------------------------- | :----------- | :--------------------------------- | | rock | 3 | none |

Alpinism Department of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions Alpinist Camp "Alay"

Report

On the first ascent of Peak 4552 (Baykonur) via the west wall, category 4B, tentatively completed by a group of climbers from the "Alay" alpine camp 2nd category coach V. Boldyrev 16/411-8/7. Osh, 1981

Ascent Details

1. Type of ascent — technical (rock climbing).
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Gamyush ridge.
3. Peak 4552 m (Baykonur), west wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.

The summit 4470 (p. Bivachnaya) is located in the northern lateral spur of the Gummi ridge (Pamirs-Alai), which separates the V I (l. Verkhniy) and Nizhniy Guamshi glaciers. At the summit 4470 (p. Bivachnaya):

• It is connected by a ridge to the summit 4600 (p. Trenirovochnуy) to the north
• The ridge descends to the Guamshi river
• It is a destroyed red-colored gendarme
• The eastern slopes steeply drop to the Nizhniy Guamshi glacier From the west, a number of counterforts approach the main ridge, separated by steep (up to 50°) snow-ice couloirs. A group of climbers from the Alay tourist center, consisting of Shkodin V.G. (leader), Dodiy V.,

Description of the approach to the route

From the base camp located in Guamyщ valley, ascend the grassy slope to the moraine of Glacier №4. Follow the glacier to the glacial lakes, turn left towards the wide couloir narrowing at the top (1 hour).

Brief explanation of the table

Section О–I: Ascend the snow-filled couloir to the saddle. The couloir is traversed with alternating belay, belay through an ice axe. There are sections covered with ice, which can be bypassed via неслож­ным (uncomplicated) rocks with a key belay (I piton). The steepness of the section is 50°. Section I–2: The exit to the saddle is represented by destroyed rocks (40 m) with a five-meter rock wall at the bottom. The belay is piton (2 pitons). Steepness is 60°. Section 2–3: From the saddle, move left along the ridge through destroyed rocks and talus shelves, bypassing gendarmes on the left. The summit is a destroyed rock of red color. Descent to the north via a couloir.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category ROCK
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alay ridge
3. Summit Kyzkochkan height 4100 m Ascent route from Joljilga valley via the 3rd ridge (eastern slope)
4. Proposed difficulty category

Jashtyk-To Mountain

2A category, 600 m, 40°, 4 people via Jashtyk Pass. March 31, 1981. Tsibulevsky, V. Zhmaev, M. Karpenkov, I. Shchekanov (leader). Kichik-Alay ridge, upper Kyrgyz-Ata valley. Scale: 1 cm = 500 m. Approximately 100 km from Osh city to Iski-Naukat forestry.

Main characteristics table for the route to Kyrgyz-Ata peak via Jashtyk Pass

| Date, time | Section | Group | Average steepness | Distance, m | Difficulty category | Relief type | Relief condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolts |

Kumbel

South of the junction peak of Jalan-Kanysh in the Kyzyk-Alay ridge, between the Chugam and Kurgan passes, stands a small simple rocky peak Kumbel with a height of 4180 m, with gentle tall scree slopes at its foot. Only one route has been laid to the summit — on February 16, 1987, a group consisting of V. Suviga, Yu. Gorbunov, S. Ovcharenko, and A. Studenin ascended to the summit of Kumbel via the southern slope. Ascents via the Eastern and Western ridges and from the north to the summit have not been made.

2. Kumbel via the southern slope of the Western ridge

The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 6, 8, 9). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2–6 people), cross the Kurgan river by bridge and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan gorge. Pass through the juniper forest of the green cape, then ford the stream of the first lateral cirque of the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, then — the southern scree slopes of the peak Burevestnik Kyzyk-Alaysky. Further along the pack trail, ford the stream of the second lateral cirque, formed by the ridges of the peaks Burevestnik, Kumbel, and the Northern Kyzyk-Alay ridge, and approach the scree slopes leading to the Kurgan pass. From the alpine camp — 3–4 hours.

Mestia route via the Southwest Ridge, Category 1B

Route Description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" recreation center and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of these has Mestian overnight stays. Climbing to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of the large hitching post on which the Mestian hut is located; we go around the hitching post on the left and climb onto it. There are small crevices under the hitching post. From the Mestia Hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. The path continues along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large glacier crevices are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again emerge onto a large firn plateau, along which we move in the direction of the Mestia Pass. From the Mestia Pass, we turn left and move across the vast firn plateau towards the snow pyramid of Mestia-Tau. Crevices are possible on the left as we proceed. Descent is via the ascent route. The median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier