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Route Description: траверс с З на ЮВ
Traverse of peaks 1309 (Polyarny Peak) and 1287 (Topografov Peak) in the Polar Urals, category 2B, a combined route with an altitude difference of 540 m.
Passport
- Section number according to KMGV - 2010 - 8.3.47 Polar Ural, Raiiz mountain massif, Sob River valley.
- Name of the peak: 1309.0 (Pik Polarny) - 1287 (Pik Topografov) height: 1309.0–1287 route: traverse from west to southeast
- Category of difficulty: proposed 2Bz, pp.
- Character of the route - combined.
- Height difference of the route: 540 m
- Length of the route: 6600 m
Route Description: С гребню
Description of a new 2A category complexity route to the peak Ekspeditsionny via the northern ridge in the Western Caucasus.
P. Expeditionnyi via N ridge Ivanchenko V. A. Western Caucasus 2.1
Passport
- Rock category
- Western Caucasus
- P. Expeditionnyi via N ridge
- Proposed - 2A category, first ascent
- Height difference 1030 m, length 1431 m Average slope of the route 45°
- Used protection - 5
- Team's travel hours: 10 hours and 1 day
Route Description: С гребню
Description of a combined route along the North-West ridge to the summit of Lekzyr Malaya (ZA cat.), including traversing glaciers, rocks and snowy-ice slopes.
163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26).
From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of
Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side.
Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund,
and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit.
On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the
snow-covered rocky ascent.
Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up.
Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then:
Route Description: С кф. В гребня
Ascent to the summit of Sullukol peak via the left buttress of the North wall, route category 4B, duration 4 days.
186. Sullukol via the left counterfort of the North face (D. Sukhodolsky's route, cat.4B)
Route Description: траверс
Route 2A category of complexity to the peaks of Sarykol and Mestia through the Mestia saddle with a description of the path and key obstacles.
259. Sarykol — Mestia
(the route is combined, by D. Gudkov, category 2A, fig. 18, 29). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Mestia saddle with an initial bivouac on the plateau or in the Adyrsu hut is described in route 247. At the Mestia saddle, turn left and along the snowy plateau (closed crevices) approach the right (southern) slopes of the Western ridge of Sarykol peak, bypassing the lower gendarmes. From the plateau:
- along a gently sloping wide snowy slope,
- then along the talus and easy rocks of the wide couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" stones) ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge to the right and above the Big gendarme. On the saddle, turn right and along the snow-covered easy, местами simple rocks of the long gentle saddle of the Western ridge approach the summit ascent. From here:
- along a gently sloping ice-snow couloir,
- further along simple ruined rocks of the ascent ascend to the summit of Sarykol. From the plateau of the circus, 1.5-2 hours. On the summit of Sarykol, turn right, then a short descent along a simple ridge in the direction of Mestia peak. Further along a simple sharp destroyed rocky ridge approach the I gendarme. Along rocks of medium difficulty of the 40-50-meter wall, ascent (insurance with a rope) to the I gendarme. Along a heavily destroyed, местами sharp simple easy ridge with numerous gendarmes descend to the ridge. From the ridge, along simple rocks, ascent, then along a simple destroyed rocky ridge with several short ice-snow ridges (cornices) ascend to the summit of Mestia.
Route Description: левому кф. С склона
Ascent route description to Triangle Peak (3928 m) via the left buttress of the northern slope, difficulty category 3B, Caucasus.
II ASCENT PASSPORT
- Climbing category — technically challenging
- Climbing area according to KTMGV: Caucasus. From Chiperezau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Treugolnik 3928 m, left buttress of the northern slope
- Estimated difficulty category: 3A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m; average steepness — 40°; section lengths:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Ullutau Main (4207 m) via the North-North-West face, completed by the team of the Kabardino-Balkarian Amateur Sports Club in 1985.
Passport
- Climbing category: ice-snow
- Climbing region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su region
- Peak, its height and ascent route: Ullutau Main via North-Northwest wall, 4207 m, 5B category, 3rd ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m; average steepness — 47°; route length to the ridge — 1300 m.
- Pitons used: rock 13/0, drilled 0/0, chocks 4/0, ice screws 122/0
- Team's total climbing hours: 9 hours
- Team: leader Kurganov N.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports
Members:
- Erokhin I.D. — Candidate for Master of Sports
Route Description: СЗ стене
u½½¯² Was.
Route Description: траверс
Traverse p. Volnaya Spain — v. Vzhdukh, 4A cat. diff., with a detailed description of the challenging route and descent specifics.
п. Volnaya Ispania — в. Vjedukh. 4А cat. diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п. Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер. Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.
Route Description: СЗ стене
A description of the climbing route to the summit with a detailed indication of the ascent stages and necessary technical techniques.
Description, Marinuto
The path from "Terekos" to "Kurnik". At the beginning, at the 14-year end, it does not provide conveniently erroneous simple and impeccable things. From "Kurnik" common smooth and short and dry oxidations, refusing oxidations. Along the length of oxidation, given in oxidation, in 12–14 years at 8:00–10:00:
- refusing smooth
- not refusing oxidation yielding from the execution of skis. The violation is not violated for oxidation, gives and 10 m. Inside conveniently marinuto, violation. With a violation at the 14-year end, and 80 m. Inside, violation, on