P. Expeditionnyi via N ridge Ivanchenko V. A. Western Caucasus 2.1

Passport

1. Rock category
2. Western Caucasus
3. P. Expeditionnyi via N ridge
4. Proposed - 2A category, first ascent
5. Height difference 1030 m, length 1431 m Average slope of the route 45°
6. Used protection - 5
7. Team's travel hours: 10 hours and 1 day
8. Leader: Ivanchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports category Team members: Filipyev S.G. — badge holder Pirgovsky A. — badge holder Bieber I.E. — badge holder
9. Coach: Kozak L.R.
10. Approach to the route: 7:00 August 7, 1992 Summit: 14:00 Return: 16:30
11. Organization: Dnipropetrovsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

of the route to the summit of P. Expeditionnyi via N ridge

From the base camp, ascend towards the pass Сочи. Then along the moraine to the foot of the glacier between the peaks P. Сочи and P. Expeditionnyi. The glacier is closed, belay. After overcoming fairly steep, grassy and rocky walls, we reach the N ridge of P. Expeditionnyi. Then we traverse left along a long sloping ledge, which leads to a saddle on the ridge (the lowest point on the ridge). After crossing to the western side, we traverse the ridge with a loss of height to a snow patch (about 200 m). From the snow patch, a couloir leads up to the ridge. After overcoming it, we ascend to the N ridge. Belay. Then along the wall, we reach the ridge, belay, protection. Approaching the summit tower, we traverse left along a sloping ledge to a couloir. After overcoming it, we reach the summit. Belay, protection. Descent via 1B.