Central Pamir

PIK ROSSII

6878 m

ASCENT REPORT

of the ascent by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee along the center of the Western wall Team leader, coach Efimov S.B. MS "Burevestnik". Team members:

• Samoylin M.A. MS "Burevestnik"
• Lebedikhin A.V. MS "Burevestnik"
• Vinogradsky E.M. MS "Burevestnik"

Upper Reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier

"Description of the First Ascent to Peak Sент-Экзюпери (6063 m), Category 4B difficulty via the North Ridge". Protocol No. 427 dated January 18, 1977. Classify as Category 4A difficulty. First ascent credited to the group. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 27, 1976.

Group Composition

Leader — K.N. Veselov — Candidate Master of Sports Members:

• A.V. Abramov — 1st sports category

Climbing category — B/technical. Climbing region — Pamir. Darvaz Range. Peak, its height, route — p. 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya), height 5970 via N.E. spur. First ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness — 50°. Pitons hammered: rock ( закладки ) — 50, ice — 44. Number of travel hours — 18. Number of nights and their characteristics — one, cut out in ice. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:

1. Efimov S. — MS
2. Lavrukhin V. — MS Team coach: — Efimov S. Date of departure and return — July 14–15, 1978. Dushanbe — 1978

Scheme of l. Bivachny area

ROUTE DESCRIPTION 5585

(Pik Cherepanova)

ASCENT TO THE UNNAMED PEAK "5700" THIRD FROM THE EAST IN THE TANIMAS RIDGE VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE

(re-ascent)

Group composition:

1. BOGOMOLOV V.F. - leader (III sports category)
2. OLESHKO V.M. - participant (II sports category)
3. BOGOMOLOVA G.A. - participant (II sports category)
4. EGOROV P.V. - trainer-observer (Master of Sports)

Duration

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
8. Team:

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Pamir, Vanch Range.
3. Peak, its height, and climbing route: 1st North peak of Arda-bag (4920 m) via the West face.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 920 m; average steepness — 68°; total length of sections — 1160 m, including R1 — none, R2 — none, R3 — 285, R4 — 510, R5 — 270, R6 — 95.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock 67, ice 4; for aid climbing — 3; expansion bolts — none.
7. Number of climbing hours: 20 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 bivouac, sitting.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader and participants, and their sports qualification: Nikolaichuk Oleg Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports, team leader; Onysko Orest Stepanovich, Candidate Master of Sports; Viter Igor Sergeevich, 1st sports category; Gusakovsky Viktor Vasilyevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach: Bolizhevsky Valery Konstantinovich, Master of Sports of the USSR.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: Training.
2. Ascent area: NW Pamir, spurs of the Darvaz Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5400 (p. Ledovyy, name is conditional) via the north-eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference 600 m.
   • average slope 40°
   • length of sections with 5 cat. diff. – 20 m.
6. Number of pitons driven for belaying, for creating artificial holds:

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev) via the Northwest Slope, Category 3B

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev. Route name: via the northwest slope
3. Category of difficulty — proposed 3B.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

On the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev)

Via the northwestern slope, category 3B difficulty Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Classification table section number for 2001 — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev.

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.