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1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")

Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.) Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak. From the bivouac:

• Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
• From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
• Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
  • The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
• From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
  • Bivouac in the bowl.
  • From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.

115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.

202. Kenchat via the North ridge (category 1B, A. Zyuzin, S. Katsnelson, A. Kaverin, F. Kompaneyets, L. Khodyush, August 7, 1938). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stony plateau in the upper reaches of the Tyutyusu gorge is described in route 184. From the plateau, turn left and first go along the glacier, then along the gentle moraines and talus to reach the left branch of the unnamed glacier flowing from the Killar pass. This is the starting bivouac. From the last grove, it takes 6-8 hours. From the bivouac, exit to the left branch of the glacier and ascend to the upper snowy plateau along its right edge. On the plateau (many crevasses!), head towards the wide saddle of the ridge between the peaks of Orel on the left and Kenchat on the right. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund along a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard!), then ascend simple, destroyed rocks to reach the Killar pass saddle. Here, turn right and exit onto the North ridge of Kenchat peak. From here, the ascent follows the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices!). The 1st gendarme and, after an 8-10-meter snow bridge, the 2nd gendarme are overcome along the ridge. After the gendarmes, ascend along the snowy ridge with huge cornices, or along the heavily destroyed, simple rocks of its left slope (belay!). Then, ascend along the upper part of the snow funnel formed by the curved ridge. Further, ascend along the rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) to reach the summit of Kenchat. From the pass, it takes 2-2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days. Additionally, bring 2-3 ice axes.

111. Kenchat via the North Ridge

(combined route, 2A cat. dif., fig. 5, 13) The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) through the Tyutysu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the gorge is described in route 106. From the plateau, turn left and first follow the Tyutyu glacier, then traverse the gentle moraines and scree to reach the foot of the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier, which flows from the Kilar pass. Set up the initial bivouac here. It takes 4–6 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, ascend to the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier and follow its right side to reach the upper snow plateau. Traverse the plateau (watch for hidden crevasses) to approach the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the right and the Oryol peak on the left. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund, then:

• ascend a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard),
• followed by straightforward traverse across broken rocks to reach the Kilar pass. The path from the Bashil tourist base to the Kenchat glacier is described in route 115. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the left and the Oryol peak on the right. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Tyutysu) and reach the North Ridge of the Kenchat peak. Follow the ice-and-snow North Ridge (cornices, protection) to approach the first pinnacle, which is overcome directly via a 6–8-meter wall. Then traverse an 8–10-meter sharp snow ridge (cornice, protection) to approach the second pinnacle; ascend it via a 6–8-meter wall (protection). Continue ascending:
• along the partially sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge (large cornices),

Kichkidar via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route Description:

The path from the "Ullutau" alpine base lies along the trail of the "Kullumkol" gorge, exiting to the "Nizhnie-Kichkidars" overnight camps on the Western Yunom-Su glacier, and then on to the "Nizhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From the "Verkhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps, the path initially lies in the direction of the "Donkina" pass, with an ascent to the right part of the glacier and then towards the steep Western ridge. Approaching it, the glacier is heavily crevassed (travel strictly roped), we approach the right side of the ridge from the "Kichkidar" summit and ascend via ice and snow, bypassing the rocky wall at the base of the Western ridge and its first gendarme on the right. On the saddle, turn slightly right and then proceed along snowy slabs and, in places, steep rocks, heading towards the 2nd small gendarme; this is a control cairn. From it, upwards, bypassing the high gendarmes and walls on the left (belaying is mandatory), interspersed with snowy sections of the Western ridge, we reach the summit. The journey takes 4-5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the path of 2A cat. diff. to the "Zaitsev" To the "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie" overnight camps!

63. Kichkidar via Western slope of the Southern ridge (route is combined, 2A cat., fig. 5, 7). The path from the “Jailyk” alp camp (group of 4–12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with the initial bivouac at the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses) approach the snowy-ice Western slope on the left side of the saddle of the massif, which connects the Kichkidar peak on the left and the Yunumkara peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend 180–200 m up the steep snowy-ice Western slope to the snowy-ice saddle (possible cornices) to the left of the two rocky towers of the Zaitsev. On the saddle, turn left and along the wide snowy-ice ridge (cornices) of the saddle, approach the ascent to the Kichkidar tower summit. Along the steep easy rocks of the ascent, bypassing the gendarme on the left, with a 10-meter wall (belay) on the Southern ridge, ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” 3–3.5 hours.

64. Kichkidar via the West Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 5, 7). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with a starting bivouac at "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the steep West Ridge of Kichkidar peak. From the glacier, turn right and ascend the ice-snow slope, bypassing the rock walls at the base of the West Ridge and its I gendarme on the right. After passing the gendarme, turn left and ascend a 120-160-meter ice-snow couloir to the col of the West Ridge above the I gendarme. On the col, turn right, then across snowy expanses, destroyed and sometimes steep rocks alternating with snowy sections of the West Ridge, bypassing low gendarmes and walls on the left (with protection), ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" 3-3.5 hours.