5.36.

30a Kidzal, 3A cat. diff., Southwest Ridge, A. Petrov, 1979 38.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Kidzal, 4291 m, via Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route description: Elevation gain 500 m, sections of 5th category difficulty 35 m, average steepness?
6. Pitons driven: rock, for belay: 5.
7. Duration: 7 hours from the bivouac under Anzak Pass.

Republican Climbing Club

Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations

Kazakh SSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Sugar Head (4971 m) via the northeast edge (Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay) (First ascent) Alma-Ata 1966 

Photo #1

NORTHEAST EDGE OF PEAK

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION № 292 dated October 3, 1968 5A+Б It is given The route has not been entered, apparently, into the classification table of routes, as it was mistakenly believed that this same route was first passed by a group led by S. Morozov, who is listed in the table. V. Yumikevich April 26, 1984

First Ascent of Hazor-Mech Peak via the Northeast Face, Category 3A Difficulty

MOSCOW — 1963 Hazor-Mech peak (View from the Shadon River valley) Map of the Fann Mountains area

Description of the Climbing Area

In the western part of the Zeravshan Range, between the Dan-Darya and Kshut-Darya river basins, lies a relatively isolated massif known as the Fann Mountains. The peaks of this mountain node reach heights of 5500 m (Chimtarga — 5487 m, Big Ganiza — 5415 m, Dukdon — 5208 m, Zengia — 5105 m, etc.) — a total of up to 10 peaks exceeding 5000 m. The Fann Mountains are situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar Ranges. Significant glaciation in this area is primarily found on the northern slopes. South of Big Ganiza peak, in the upper reaches of the Iskander-Darya River, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the large and very beautiful Lake Iskander-Kul, which is a dammed lake. This area remains understudied, and many peaks await their first ascents.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak — 4292, via the left part of the South face
4. Proposed category — 5A category, first ascent
5. Route length — 1750 m Length of 5th category sections — 200 m Average steepness of the wall section — 53° Height difference — 1042 m
6. Pitons used:

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

• Alay range,
• Turkestan range,
• Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:

Стол (4500 m) along the Kinomu slope 35° cat. tr. August 22, 1969 G. S. Starikov The summit of Стол is located on the southwestern slope of the Kov-Bel ridge and is connected by a pass to Таджи-Таш. The beginning of the route passes along the orographic left side of the snow-ice couloir descending along the Kinomu slope of the summit. The first two ropes pass through heavily destroyed rocks located away from the couloir. Then the rocks become monolithic, but with good holds and footholds, the steepness is 50–60°. After 200 m, by traversing to the right, we enter the couloir running parallel to the main one. In the middle of summer, most of the couloir is snowy, and only in the last few meters - ice. The couloir is 70 m, then exit to the right onto rocks. 30 m up a simple slab, then traverse left to exit under our spot with a cork. After the chimney, an inclined shelf leads to a platform under a 30-meter rock "mirror":

• Straight from the platform, 15 m up (steep), then traverse left.

Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
3. Peak, route: peak Admiralteets 5090 m via "Bashkirov's Pillar" route, 6A category.
4. Elevation gain:
   • "Pillar" elevation gain – 740 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" elevation gain – 560 m
   • Total route length – 2860 m
   • "Pillar" length – 920 m
   • Main part of the "Pillar" length – 675 m

AkSu (N), center of the North face, 6B cat. diff. by B.A. Khandzhapov

1.4.2. Report on the ascent of the team from Irkutsk to the summit of AkSu (N) via the center of the North face (Ruchkin'96) (3rd ascent)

August 2008 09.09.2008 Khandzhapov Bair

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
2. AkSu (N), 5217 m, center of the North face.
3. Proposed 6B cat. diff. (third ascent).
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 1517 m, wall section height difference — 1415 m;

General view from the south. Arrows indicate ascent routes. Semenov-Bashi, 3602 m

Via the central bastion of the southern wall. Cat. 3A

From al "Alibek" up along the trail leading to the training slopes of Semenov-Bashi peak. From the rocks up along the grassy slopes in the direction of the southern wall of Semenov-Bashi peak to the large snow circus under the wall. From "Alibek" - 3 hours. Along the snowy slope with a steepness of 25-30° up to the central bastion of the Southern wall (the start of the route is to the right of the red arrow drawn on a light 8-meter rock). Along the rocks first up, then to the right, crossing the couloir, exit under the wall. Along the wall up to a large shelf. Control cairn. From the shelf to the right-up along the system of inner corners, shelves, and ridges - exit to a loose mulda and along it to the "roof". Along the easy rocks of the roof - exit to the Eastern ridge and along it to the left to the summit. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Descent via route 1B (see below). Recommendations:

• Group size: 6 people
• Initial bivouac: under the Southern wall