ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak — 4292, via the left part of the South face
4. Proposed category — 5A category, first ascent
5. Route length — 1750 m Length of 5th category sections — 200 m Average steepness of the wall section — 53° Height difference — 1042 m
6. Pitons used: rock bolt placements 33 1 40/3
7. Climbing hours — 14 (1 day)
8. Leader — Zinaida Lenivkova — CMS (Candidate Master of Sports) Team members: — Andrey Lushnikov — CMS — Vladimir Ivanov — CMS — Sergey Reznikov — CMS
9. Coach — Vyacheslav Glushko — MS USSR (Master of Sports USSR)
10. Group of instructors from AUSB "Varzob"
11. Departure to the route — August 29, 1986 Summit reached — August 29, 1986 Return — August 29, 1986

Route to Peak 4292 via the left part of the South face, 5A category (1986)

1 — Z. Lenivkova's route to Peak 4292 via the left part of the South face, 5A category (1986) 2 — A. Rusyaev's route to Sar-Tamur peak via the SW face, 5B category (1984) 3 — O. Klyunin's route to Sar-Tamur peak via the left part of the SW face, 5B category (1987)

Map of the "Arch Plateau" area

Legend:

• group path
• location of the assault camp
• numbers and viewpoints

Note: in 1987, the map was adjusted according to photopanoramic survey data.

ROUTE SCHEME IN UIAA SYMBOLS

Route description by sections

Section R0–R1. Smooth rock slabs leading to the sheer walls of Peak 4292. Approach to the wall via scree. 800 m, 45°, III category. Section R1–R2. A faintly expressed rock rib leads to an inclined ledge. 120 m, 65°, IV category. 1st control point here. Section R2–R3. Steep wall with no clear relief. Limited holds. 120 m, 60–70°, IV–V category. Section R3–R4. Wall steepness decreases. Move right to the right edge of a large internal corner, remaining on the left. 30 m, 40°, III category. 2nd control point here. Section R4–R5. Steep wall. Limited relief. Movement on friction, using IT (Intermediate Technical) equipment. 40 m, 80°, V+ category. Section R5–R6. Series of steep walls ending before a smooth slab. Limited relief. Movement on friction. 40 m, 70°, 5th category. Section R6–R7. Key section of the route. Smooth slab turning into a wall. Very steep. Limited holds. Difficult to organize protection. "Skyhooks" used during passage. Without bolt technique, passage is problematic for those with weak rock climbing skills. 40 m, 85°, 5+ category. Crossing a cornice at the exit. Section R7–R8. Series of walls leading to the western ridge of Peak 4292. 60 m, 60°, III–IV category. Section R8–R9. Easy ridge section leading to the summit. 500 m, 20°, I–II category. Descent. Descent along the eastern ridge to the saddle below Sar-Tamur peak. Overnight stay possible. Snow present. From the saddle, descend south towards the "Arch Plateau"; 7 rappels, then down the slabs, carefully using friction. Exiting the assault camp located below the route, the group returned at 21:00 after departing at 7:00.