Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Bars-1 (3800 m), route name: via the left part of the N wall.
3. Difficulty category: approximately 4A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Height difference of the wall section: 520 m, route length: 1150 m, wall section length: 650 m, section lengths: 5th category – 130 m, 4th category – 150 m, average steepness of the route 59°.
6. Pitons used on the route: Rock: 8, cams: 37, nuts: 19, ice screws: 0.
7. Team's climbing hours: 6 h 30 min (pure ascent).
8. Leader: Melnikov V.G. – Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

N 582 p. 55 dated January 26, 1988 Complexity category 3A. I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Summit, its height, and ascent route — "Gnom", 3450 m, via South ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route — p. Kergely, 3750 m, northwestern counterfort. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, average steepness of the wall section — 55°, total route — 35°, length of sections: 1—..., 2—100 m, 3—345 m, 4—130 m, 5—...

Description

Via the Northwest Ridge

First ascent to the peak "Pioneer", height 3923 m

(above sea level), Ugam Range (Western Tian Shan).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class – combined 2. Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope 4. Expected difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. 6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Sary-Aygyr", 3350 m, NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 700 m
   • average steepness: 43°
   • length of sections: I–500 m, II–450 m, III–45 m
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height "Slovakia" 3700 m, 3 ascent route - ridge 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 390 m average steepness - 68° length of sections: II–90 m, III–80 m, IV–230 m, V–80 m 6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT CERTIFICATE №1 Class: ROCK Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge (7.II) Peak: SOLIDARNOST Height: 3600 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed complexity category: via south-west slope 41. Solidarnost 3600 1B cat. diff. (via 3rd slope V. Shadrin, 1998) 1B cat. diff. Height difference: 400 m Length: 700 m Steepness: avg. 40° (max – 65°)

Description of the ascent to the summit "Sypuchaya" (4000 m above sea level) in the Ugam Range

The summit "Sypuchaya" is located in a lateral ridge of the Ugam Range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the southwest of "Sypuchaya" peak, the "Obmanchivaya" peak rises in the ridge. The peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya" are separated by a saddle. Two ridges extend from "Sypuchaya": the "Northwestern" and the southern ones. The northwestern ridge is not of mountaineering significance. There is no glaciation on the southern side of "Sypuchaya"; the northern side was poorly visible due to bad weather. We leave the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake at 5:00 AM and move eastward. The entire path from the intermediate camp to the saddle is the same as for "Obmanchivaya" peak. Upon reaching the saddle, we turn left (in the direction of travel), i.e., to the north. We begin our ascent to the summit first over scree and then over easy rock. During the ascent, we encounter 4 "jandarms" (rock pinnacles) that can be easily bypassed on either the left or the right. Simultaneous protection is used. After 1.5–2 hours, we reach a snowy ridge. We reach the summit in 1 hour of travel along the snowy ridge. The weather began to deteriorate at 11:00 AM; by 12:00 PM, it started snowing. We reached the summit at 1:00 PM. The time taken for the ascent was 8 hours. The summit is in the form of a dome of fine scree. The descent is made via the ascent route. The route corresponds to category 1B difficulty. The total time taken for the ascent and descent was 11 hours. The first ascent was made on May 13, 1962. Group leader: Participants:

• Skuratovich E.M.

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;