Shkhara South via the East Ridge

(combined route by A. Naumov, category 5A, fig. 18, 21). The path from the "Ailama" alpine camp (group of 4-6 people) to the left-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shkhara glacier is described in route 184. From the moraine:

• descend to the right side of the glacier;
• traverse the flat part of the glacier to bypass the icefall and crevasses on the lower part of the glacier on the right;
• approach the base of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak. From the glacier:
• ascend the scree slope, and higher up, the snow slope, bypassing the base of the East Ridge on the left, to the inner corner - the beginning of the rock ledge that rises to the right towards the takeoff of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak;
• follow this ledge up and to the right onto the East Ridge, below the sheer wall. At the platform below the wall - a bivouac. From the "Ailama" alpine camp, 12-14 hours. From the platform, ascend a difficult 70-80-meter wall to a ledge, and from it, traverse the slabs to a snow-covered saddle on the East Ridge. From here, follow simple, smooth rocks ("loose rocks") on the wide, snow-covered East Ridge to approach the narrow crest of the East Ridge.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To V. 3984 m. Working name — Pik Sokolovoy (Sokolova) Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′42.23″ N. 43°15′46.61″ E) via the Western ridge First ascent presumably 3A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. — Galimzyanov T.R.

Dedicated to Ekaterina Sokolova (1984–2014)

Peak Archimedes via Ridge 3, 2B

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, 100 m up the trail, then right along the talus on the slope of Ridge 3 and along an inclined wide terrace (stay on its left edge, there are good goat trails here) to its end. Bypassing the last gendarme with a traverse from Ridge 3 to SW along the ledges along a system of cairns, enter a couloir leading to the 3rd "alley," and along it up to the left about 100 m to the exit onto the ridge behind the gendarme (here is the last cairn) — 1.5–2 hours from the hut. Next comes a wide section of Ridge 3 — a glacier filling the hollow between two parallel rocky sides. Traverse the glacier to its end and here to the left onto a sharp rocky ridge. As a rope team:

• along a rocky gentle ridge for 60 m
• after a connector — up along a snowy wide ridge (if icy — along the right rocky edge) under the wall of the 3rd summit of Peak Archimedes. Under the wall:
• traverse right for 40 m along a ledge (there may be snow, ice; secure using protrusions and pitons),
• then up rocky terrain (piton) to the S. ridge,
• along it to the left under a huge stone (“egg” — it's visible from the camp) on the 3rd summit of Peak Archimedes.

Arkhimed peak via V. Greben, 3A

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend the gorge along the trail of the Ukyu glacier’s terminal moraine, then along the glacier, bypassing the northern buttresses of the 3rd ridge on the left, to the snow-ice slope leading to Ural Pass –1.5–2 hours (From the “dovecote” –3/4–1 hour). Up the middle part of the slope (rockfall hazard on the first half of the ascent from the left from the slopes of the 1st gendarme of the 3rd ridge of p. Ural) into the cirque under the pass, and up — to the pass (fig. 1). From the bivouac 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the pre-summit “gendarme” begins along the rock ledge to the right of the ridge for 20 m and then up 40 m into the ridge’s gap (possible snow, flow ice). From the gap, descend to a ledge on the S side, along the ledge for 10 m and then up the internal angle for 30 m with piton belay to the ridge. Along the ridge simultaneously — to the top of the “gendarme”, here is a control cairn. Descent from the “gendarme”: 1st option — from the summit to the 3rd km to the protrusion, from it on a doubled rope, 7–10 m sportively down the smooth slab into the wide rock chimney. Along the chimney and then along the rocks to the left of the ridge to the isthmus (so-called “hole”), covered from above by a huge flat stone; 2nd option — from the summit first S ~40 m, then along the SW wall ledges to the same isthmus. From the isthmus, a planned or emergency descent to the N side is possible: rappel down the inclined internal angle, then down the broken rocks, two sports pitches leading into the cirque under the pass, then along the ascent route. From the isthmus, along the broken rocks to the left of the ridge, up to the snowy shoulder of the summit, then traverse left along the ledge to the rock couloir and up it with a S exit to the E summit. From the pass 3–4 hours.

5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

Ба­ш­хауз, 3 контр­фор­са с греб­ня. From the “Djangi-kosh” hut along the crest of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the crest of the counterfort with small rocky walls, then along the N crest to the right to the summit. From the start of the route 6–8 hours. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle, left along the right edge (attention - stonefall hazard on the left) of the snowy slope to the Bezengi glacier and along it (cautiously: closed crevasses, stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва) bypassing the S spurs of the Sella - Вар­ша­ва ridge to the hut. From the summit 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas:

• On the glaciers - hazardous closed crevasses and stonefall hazard under the S slopes of peak Вар­ша­ва
• On the snow-ice slope to the right of the counterfort - stonefall hazard
• On the N crest - possible cornices on the left
• When descending from the SW ridge - stonefall hazard on the left side of the slope. Special equipment:
• Rock pitons - 7–8 pcs.

Bashkhaauz, 3rd buttress of SW ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or in the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) to the upper cirque and through it directly (attention — hidden crevasses) to the base of the most extensive buttress of the SW ridge of Bashkhaauz (fig. 3). From the hut 1.5–2.5 hours. The snow slope above the bergschrund — straight up under the protection of the rock walls at the base of the buttress, then along the boundary with the rocks on the left of the buttress to the first talus ledge with snow and along it to the right on the ridge. Along a straightforward ridge for 40 m to the black wall with exfoliating rocks, then traverse left for 20 m to the “finger”, straight up for 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty and slabs to the base of the yellow

1. Brno peak via the South Ridge, 1B.

From the alp camp along the left-bank trail of Mizhirgi gorge (1.5 hrs), across the boulder-strewn glacier (20–30 min) and through the "pocket" between the slopes of Brno and the left-bank moraine (30 min) to where the glacier turns west (Cheget-Mizhirgi). Bypassing the base of the South-East ridge of Brno peak, up the grassy slope and along the trail beside the stream into the moraine "pocket" of the glacier flowing from the North Ridge of Misses-Tau. Traverse the icefall on the right via the talus shelves on the South slope of Brno, emerging onto the plateau; 2–2.5 hrs from the clearing. From the plateau, ascend the talus South slopes of Brno peak, gradually bearing left onto the South Ridge and then along the ridge. The ascent to the summit along the rocky ridge (in rope teams) takes 2–3 hrs from the plateau. The descent via the ascent route takes 3.5–4 hrs. Hazards: rockfall hazard on the shelves when traversing the icefall.

2. Varschava peak — Sella peak, traverse.

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, cross the crescent-shaped moraine, reach the Bezengi glacier and move along the "pocket" between the zone of marginal crevices and the S. slopes of Varschava peak until the glacier flattens out for 30–40 minutes (watch out! — prone to rockfall from the left, hidden crevices). To the left is a wide snow couloir, bounded on the right by the S. ridge of Varschava peak. Follow the snow on the left side of the couloir, then:

• left across the broken rocks
• up the narrow snowy couloir (if icy — along the rocky ridge to the left of the couloir)
• to the saddle on the SW ridge with a cairn. From the hut — 2 hours. From the saddle, move to the right or along the ridge line simultaneously with protection on the ridge's protrusions and bends. The rocky ascent of the ridge before the summit is bypassed on the left along an inclined ledge with piton protection, then 30 m of easy rocks. From the saddle to Varschava peak — 2 hours. From the summit, descend simultaneously along the easy, gentle rocky ridge to a dip. Descend into the dip with a double rope pull or with the last person using piton protection, then continue simultaneously along the ridge to its lowest point. The ascent to Sella peak initially follows a broken rocky, then a gentle, gradually widening snowy ridge. From here, in adverse weather conditions, it is possible to abandon the route along the S. spur — ridge. From the junction with the spur:
• simultaneously along the sharp snowy ridge with rock outcrops,