Bashkhaauz, 3rd buttress of SW ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or in the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) to the upper cirque and through it directly (attention — hidden crevasses) to the base of the most extensive buttress of the SW ridge of Bashkhaauz (fig. 3). From the hut 1.5–2.5 hours.

The snow slope above the bergschrund — straight up under the protection of the rock walls at the base of the buttress, then along the boundary with the rocks on the left of the buttress to the first talus ledge with snow and along it to the right on the ridge. Along a straightforward ridge for 40 m to the black wall with exfoliating rocks, then traverse left for 20 m to the “finger”, straight up for 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty and slabs to the base of the yellow “gendarm”. Head-on for 20 m using a hook-support to the control cairn on top of the “gendarm”. Along the snowy ridge and along the steep (70°) black wall for 30 m with good handholds. Further, simultaneously for 150 m along the ridge with steep snowy upsurges under the “gendarm-feather”. To bypass the “gendarm” either on the left along disintegrated rocks (be careful — rockfall danger), or — in good snow conditions — on the right along the couloir to the bridge behind the “gendarm”. From the bridge for 40 m along the right edge of the steep rock wall to the upper point of the buttress. Descent for 3 m along a sheer wall onto a snowy slope, along it for 60 m up to the SW ridge and along the ridge — to the summit simultaneously. From the start of the route 5–7 hours.

Descent from the summit along the ascent route to the exit point and another 50 m along the ridge to the snowy bridge, from it to the left along the right edge of the snowy slope (attention — rockfall danger from the left) to the Bezengi glacier, along the glacier (be careful — hidden crevasses, rockfall danger under the S slopes of the peak Varshava) bypassing the S spurs of the ridge Sella — Varshava to the hut, 1.5–2 hours.

Dangerous places:

• on glaciers — hidden crevasses
• rockfall danger under the S slopes of the peak Varshava
• on the buttress — rockfall-prone areas of destroyed rocks
• when descending from the SW ridge — rockfall danger from the left side of the slope.

Special equipment:

• rock pitons — 8–10 pcs.
• ice axes — 1–2 pcs.
• crampons — 1–2 pairs.