2. Varschava peak — Sella peak, traverse.

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, cross the crescent-shaped moraine, reach the Bezengi glacier and move along the "pocket" between the zone of marginal crevices and the S. slopes of Varschava peak until the glacier flattens out for 30–40 minutes (watch out! — prone to rockfall from the left, hidden crevices). To the left is a wide snow couloir, bounded on the right by the S. ridge of Varschava peak. Follow the snow on the left side of the couloir, then:

• left across the broken rocks
• up the narrow snowy couloir (if icy — along the rocky ridge to the left of the couloir)
• to the saddle on the SW ridge with a cairn.

From the hut — 2 hours.

From the saddle, move to the right or along the ridge line simultaneously with protection on the ridge's protrusions and bends. The rocky ascent of the ridge before the summit is bypassed on the left along an inclined ledge with piton protection, then 30 m of easy rocks. From the saddle to Varschava peak — 2 hours.

From the summit, descend simultaneously along the easy, gentle rocky ridge to a dip. Descend into the dip with a double rope pull or with the last person using piton protection, then continue simultaneously along the ridge to its lowest point. The ascent to Sella peak initially follows a broken rocky, then a gentle, gradually widening snowy ridge. From here, in adverse weather conditions, it is possible to abandon the route along the S. spur — ridge.

From the junction with the spur:

• simultaneously along the sharp snowy ridge with rock outcrops,
• then up the steep snowy-icy ascent (ice screws) to Sella peak.

From Varschava peak — 2.5–3 hours.

Descend from the summit to the NE along the "pocket" between the snowy ridge and the rocks, then to the left of the ridge line along the snow (be cautious — to the left, the slope's steepness increases progressively, to the right, there is a risk of cornices).

After the ridge's steep drop:

• down to the right across a rocky saddle,
• then along the rocky outcrops and snowy slope to the bergschrund.

If the bergschrund is wide:

• traverse to the right,
• then down to the glacier.

Descent time from the summit — about 1 hour.

Then:

• along the right side of the glacier, bypassing the S. spurs of the Varschava — Sella ridge to the hut — 1 hour.

Hazardous areas:

• On the Bezengi glacier — hidden crevices and prone to rockfall from the S slopes of Varschava peak
• In the couloirs (fig. 2) — prone to rockfall
• On the NE ridge of Sella peak — risk of cornices to the right.

Special equipment:

• Rock pitons — 5–6 pcs.
• Ice screws — 2–3 pcs.
• Crampons — for all.