Mshatka-Kaya — 14

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" ("Red landslide") — the green line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" (55)

Route by Yu. Lishayov ("Fantik"), Crimea Back to the main page of "Mshatka-Kaya. Three routes" Author: Alexander Lavriyenko ("Odessit"), Odessa The route passes to the right of the central bastion of Mshatka-Kaya. It is visited extremely rarely. The beginning coincides with the "Treugolnik sleva" ("Triangle on the left") route. Having passed along the "Treugolnik" for two ropes (50 m 70IV and 50 m 60III),

Mshatka-Kaya — 21

Centre of the eastern bastion, 5a

From the upper road, ascend simple rock to the right part of an overgrown shrubby inclined terrace located under the eastern part of the wall. The route starts 20 m east of the beginning of the right "side" of the Triangle (R0: 300 m, 30–50, easy — I). On the R1–R2 section:

• from a narrow inclined ledge on the left side of a small, not clearly defined counterfort to a pine tree
• then up steep walls to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III). Then up through the centre of the bastion. The landmark is a 20-meter internal corner with a tree

Sokol Mt., "Gammi Wall" route (1B)

General view Notes:

1. The route is good because the sun is in full force only after noon, and it is also well protected from winds that sometimes blow off the routes along the main wall.
2. Since the route in the middle part passes through a series of rain gullies, passing it in the rain is dangerous - water can carry stones.
3. Helmets are mandatory on the route due to the presence of loose rubble in the upper part.

Sokol. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 50–60 m
• Standard set of cams and nuts
• 10–12 quickdraws
• 2–3 large and 2 medium slings The route is long but very beautiful and relatively safe from rockfall. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A and neighboring area

Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Vecnaya molodost" Route, 3B

The "Vecnaya molodost" route is located in the western sector of Sokol Mt., next to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. A good, logical 3-pitch route that leads to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route in its upper part. Protection is natural (nuts, friends, pitons); there is little old gear. Belay stations are on trees, on key ropes on their own protection points + pitons (bolts). The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. Start 30 meters to the right, from the sign. It's convenient to set up a belay station on a large pine tree.

Sokol Mount, "Kosaia" route, classic variant — 3B (V, 8 pitches), author unknown.

The original name of the route is "Kosaia chetverka" (Kosaia four), initially classified as 4A, later it was (quite reasonably) downgraded to 3B. For a 3B category route, it's quite complex. One of the old classic routes on Sokol Mount. Logical line. Plenty of old "iron" (pitons) can be found, belay stations on trees or bolts. In recent years, a variant of the upper part was climbed via the right crack — in this case, the route category is 4A. Sokol Mount. Description of the "Kosaia (chetverka)" route, classic variant — 3B. Lower part of the route (R0–R4) Approach to the route: from the parking area at the 4th km of the Sudak — Novy Svet highway, opposite the viewpoint with a stone bearing the inscription "Slava voinam-geroiam" (Glory to the hero-warriors). From the parking area, a good trail leads right-up under the cliffs. You need to ascend to the "Galochka" (right) ledge. The landmark during the ascent to the ledge is a large dry tree. The exit to it is via a wide internal corner, climbing is not difficult (I–II), but it's better to rope up. Approach to the route and start of the route. Then along the ledge left, practically to its end. The landmark is a slanting crack with an overhanging block on the left and a tree on the right. Start of the R0–R1 pitch. R0–R1: 50 m, IV (5c). The start is from a large tree in the lower part of the slope.

Sokol peak, "Zvezda" route, 4A (S. Nadtochiy, A. Shelkhakov; January 2008), lower ropes (S. Nadtochiy, E. Burkulai; 2010). General impression of the route:

• Beautiful and challenging 4A, doesn't quite reach 4B due to its relatively short length (only 5 pitches).
• Varied and technically demanding climbing. The route starts 4 meters to the left of the "Ne khochu" route. Approach to the route: see "Zhazhda" route. The "Zvezda" route begins with a crack, to the left of which the route's name is carved. In the upper part of the route, a rock tower (bastion) serves as a landmark, with a star drawn on its right side.

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings

Falcon — 18

Author: Sovich Alexey, Kiev. The route description is based on the state as of August 19, 2003. Photos taken with a "Smena-8M" camera. "Fourth between the breasts" route, 4B category A fairly interesting 4B route. It can be a good warm-up before attempting Sokol's 5th category routes. Over the years, the route has changed slightly — it has become a bit more challenging:

• Rockfalls have destroyed several convenient trees.
• Water flows have smoothed out the relief on the second key — the лобке (forehead).
• For various reasons, there are fewer pitons on the route. In my opinion, all these changes have only made the route more mature. I believe the route is even more interesting than "White Triangle" (5A), especially in light of the recent changes. You also need to make your own belay points — there aren't many pitons here. For the route, it's sufficient to have:

Sokol — 32

"Figure Eight" 5A

The second name of this route is "Bolted Path". There are indeed bolts there. Climb simple rocks to a ledge under the wall. The starting point of the route is marked by a figure-eight-shaped ledge in the lower part of the wall. To the right of it on the ledge, there is a slab. The route's name is carved on the rock. R1 — up first on the slab, then on the wall with bolts to the belay station. R1 40 m 80° VI — R2 — vertically up to the next belay station. From here, after traversing to the right, you can reach the second belay station of "Rusty Cornice". R2 40 m 80° V. R3 — up and traverse left into an internal corner. Follow it to a large ledge. Then, through a hanging section and to the right. Belay station on a ledge on a shelf. R3 40 m 75° V. R4 — up through a chimney (onto the upper ledge) and further up slabs (after 6–7 meters, there are bolts and old pitons) under a cornice in the form of an angle to the left of the Rusty Cornice. Traverse left to a tree. Belay station on the tree. R4 50 m 75° V. From the tree, bypassing a hanging section on the left, 6–8 meters to the plateau.