Oni­ani Peak

The peak (4200 m) is nam­ed in me­mory of the mountai­ne­er Kilij­bi Oni­ani, one of the first re­sear­chers of the area. Lo­ca­t­ed in the mid­d­le part of the Ts­ei Ridge be­tween the Artsy­shevsky peak to the south-west and the Zol­o­tar­ev peak to the north-east. The south­ern des­tr­oyed rocky edge of the Oni­ani peak tur­ns into a short spur, li­mi­ting to the east the cirque of the Wil­pa­tinsky gla­cier. The rocky plat­for­ms on the west side of the spur are nam­ed af­ter the mountai­ne­er Taisi­ya Vol­gi­na. To the Son­guti gla­cier from the peak des­cends a b­ro­ken ice-and-snow slope with ra­re rocky out­cro­ps, and to the south-east, to the Four gla­cier, to­wards the Ts­ei val­ley — des­tr­oyed rocky coun­ter­for­ts.

93. PLIEVA via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, 4A category of difficulty) From the starting point in the Tsey district, head towards "Zelyonyy kholm" moraine of the Skaazsky glacier and further to the glacier plateau under the Lagaukhokh cliffs.

From the Torpedo bus station by car along the Ossetian Military Road towards the Mamisson Pass to the Mamikdon River, which flows from the Ronketi Glacier, along the trail that runs along the right bank of the river to the moraine. Cross the river and follow the trail along the ridge of the first moraine, which runs along the left bank of the river — ascent to the overnight stays located in the hollow between the two moraines. Cairn on the moraine. 1.5 hours from the Ossetian Military Road (see Appendix I). From the overnight stays, go right to the ridge of the next moraine and ascend to its end. From here, go right onto the glacier (be careful, crevasses) and cross it in the direction of the Freshfield Pass. The Freshfield Pass is accessed via a couloir, which is wide and snowy at the bottom, with a bergschrund. The ascent to the pass initially goes up the middle of the couloir. In the middle section, the couloir narrows, and the ascent is made along its right side, close to the rocks. In the upper part, the couloir widens again and breaks into several branches. Leaving a large rocky outcrop on the left, ascend via the leftmost narrow scree couloir, which leads to the Freshfield Pass, at the start of the route. 1.5–2 hours from the overnight stays. From the pass, ascend left and upwards along the ridge, via moderately difficult rocks, 20–30 m. Then ascend straight up a narrow rocky couloir for 2–3 ropes. Protection via rock outcrops. The ascent is always on the right side of the eastern ridge. Then follow an inclined ledge and further via a cleft exit left onto the ridge, 1.5–2 ropes, piton belay. Continue along the ridge: initially sharp, then broadening. A large boulder is bypassed on the right. Further along ledges to the right of the ridge, ascend to the summit. 1.5–2 hours from the pass.

96. Ronchetti Vostochnaya via North-Eastern wall (combined route, cat. 4A)

The path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier under the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Ronchetti. From the bivouac, across the plateau (closed crevices), approach the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti peak. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to a steep snow-ice slope under the left side of the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti. Then, along a steep 60–70-meter snow-ice slope, approach a 10–12-meter rock couloir wall of the North-Eastern wall. From the snow patch, ascend the 10–12-meter wall of moderate difficulty rocks to the right and upwards into the rock couloir. Ascend 60 m straight up through simple and moderately difficult rocks, possibly snow-covered, passing the wall on the left in the lower part. Further ascent:

• 100 m along steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the couloir (piton belay);
• 120 m along tile-like steep, above moderate difficulty, rocks of the wall («live» rocks, piton belay). Then, traverse 30–40 m through the couloir and two small ridges to the left into a wet but simpler couloir. From here:
• Ascend frozen and wet rocks of moderate and above moderate difficulty (piton belay) on the right side of the couloir to a rock plug;

Fig. 37 181. Ron­ket­ti Glav­na­ya (4080 m) via South Ridge (combined route, 2А cat. dif., fig. 37). From the CPS of the Tsey region (group of 4–20 people) — along the highway; 1 km before the Mamison Pass, turn right into the last gorge and ascend along the trail along the bank of the Mamison River to the eponymous glacier. Further:

• along the talus and moraine deposits covering the glacier, approach the first lower moraine rising left along the eastern slopes of the South Ridge of the Glavnaya Ron­ket­ti peak;
• at the upper part of the moraine under the eastern buttress of the South Ridge — initial

Fig. 37 182. Ronketti Main (4080 m) via the Western ridge (route is combined, B. Golubev, category III difficulty, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier below the Tsey-Mamison pass is described in routes 83 and 179. From the bivouac, approach the middle of the Tsey-Mamison pass across the snowy plateau (closed crevasses), where a group of rocks is located. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 180-220-meter snow slope to the pass, to the group of rocks (avalanches possible, piton protection). On the pass, turn left and reach the rocks of the Western ridge of Ronketti Main, then:

• Ascend a snow slope or simple, crumbling rocks and ledges on the right side of the Western ridge, bypassing gendarmes via a traverse to the right, and approach the first southern snow couloir.
• Ascend a gentle snow couloir to a saddle behind the gendarmes of the Western ridge, before the rock ascent to the Western tower.
• From the saddle, ascend simple, crumbling rocks of the Western ridge with numerous handholds to the Western tower of Ronketti Main. From the Western tower, descend simple rocks with numerous handholds on the snowy Western ridge (cornice, loose rocks) to a saddle, and from it, ascend to the summit (Central tower) of Ronketti Main. The duration from the initial bivouac on the plateau is 4-5 hours.

Fig. 23 97. Skatikom (4450 m) via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 22, 23). The path from the Tsey region's KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, via the East branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses), approach the glacial-snow slope of the wide couloir descending from the saddle of the Skatikom's East Ridge. Ascent:

• From the plateau, cross the bergschrund and ascend the left side of the gentle glacial-snow slope towards the saddle.
• Before reaching the saddle, turn left and move up the glacial-snow couloir.
• Then, via simple rocks, reach the East Ridge's connecting ridge, left and above the large East pinnacle.
• On the connecting ridge, turn left and follow the glacial-snow East Ridge (cornices), bypassing small pinnacles on the left, to approach the rocky ascent.

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4

Fig. 23 96. Skatikom (4450 m) via North-East Wall (combined route by G. Bukharov, 5A cat. diff., Fig. 23). From the base camp on the right bank of the Songuti River, near the tongue of the same-name glacier (group of 4–6 people), ascend to the glacier, cross it to the right and exit to the right-bank moraine. Follow the moraine to the "ram's foreheads" and bypass three seracs on the right:

• First serac
• Second serac
• Third serac Beyond the third serac, exit the rocks to the left onto the glacier and ascend to the upper snow plateau of the Western branch of the glacier along its right side. Follow the plateau to the foot of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. The initial bivouac is on the plateau under the wall. 6–8 hours from the base camp. From the plateau, ascend a steep ice-and-snow 60-meter slope with a bergschrund in the middle part to a rock shelf on the left side of the black wall at the base of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. From the shelf: