Fig. 37

181. Ron­ket­ti Glav­na­ya (4080 m) via South Ridge (combined route, 2А cat. dif., fig. 37).

From the CPS of the Tsey region (group of 4–20 people) — along the highway; 1 km before the Mamison Pass, turn right into the last gorge and ascend along the trail along the bank of the Mamison River to the eponymous glacier. Further:

• along the talus and moraine deposits covering the glacier, approach the first lower moraine rising left along the eastern slopes of the South Ridge of the Glavnaya Ron­ket­ti peak;
• at the upper part of the moraine under the eastern buttress of the South Ridge — initial bivouac.

From the bivouac, turning left, ascend simple fractured rocks of the eastern buttress of the South Ridge, bypassing difficult sections on the right. Then — right-upwards, crossing numerous steep snow-ice (rockfall) couloirs, to the exit onto the South Ridge of the peak. Further along simple, heavily fractured rocks of the South Ridge with several snow sections (cornices) — ascent to the summit of Glavnaya Ron­ket­ti.

From the initial bivouac on the moraine 4–5 hours.

Descent:

• along the South Ridge at first via the ascent route,
• further — to a wide snowy talus couloir descending onto the Mamison Glacier,
• here, turn left and descend along the couloir onto the glacier to the initial bivouac.

Duration of the route is 2 days. Ascent to the summit is safer via the descent route — from the lower col of the South Ridge.

Naumov A. F. Karau­gom, Di­goria, Tsey (Cen­tral Cau­ca­sus), M., “Fiz­kul­tu­ra i sport”, 1976.