Starikov Gennadiy, Moscow (author's photo) Trapezia 2A. Ascent passport.

1. Region — Caucasus, Adylsu gorge. (tab. – 2008, p. 42, item 171) Peak name — Trapezia (3697), S slope and W ridge.
2. 2A cat. of difficulty (first ascent)
3. Route type — rock.
4. Route elevation gain from the glacier — 600 m Route length — 1200 m
5. view from the Adylsu gorge
6. view from the glacier

Route Description

to the summit of "Bezыmannaya" via the southern ridge from the southwest or Gumači pass, category 2A The summit "Bezыmannaya" is located in the upper Adyl-Su valley between the summits Gumači and Chetchat. The ridges of Bezыmannaya consist of simple destroyed rocks alternating with scree and individual snow-ice sections. The described route (traverse) from southwest to northwest was completed on August 6, 1974, by a training and sports group of the All-Union School of Instructors of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions in the following composition:

• I. Naydovich B.V. — leader.
• 2. Starikov G.A.
• 3. Sinelshchikov G.A. The route is evaluated by the group as category 2A. From the "Elbrus" base camp, the path lies along the road to the "Jantugan" base camp, then along the trail on the left bank of the Adyl-Su River to a stone bridge, across which you should cross to its right bank. Further along the trail — to the "Green Hotel" clearing. From the "Elbrus" base camp — 3.5 hours. From the "Green Hotel", go up along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of the Jan-Kuat glacier to the sites at its end ( bivouac "Sneznyy" or "Snowy"). There are two options for reaching the southern ridge of Bezыmannaya.

Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1

Report

on the first ascent of Terskolak N.W. via the northern slope and western ridge, approximately category 2B

Ascent Details

1. Region of ascent, section number — 2. Caucasus according to the Classification Table 2013 — 2.4. from Chiperaza pass to Gumači peak
2. Name of the peak, its height — Terskolak N.W. (3790 m) name of the route
   • via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed — category 2B first ascent
4. Nature of the route: — combined

Report

On the ascent to the summit 3580 m (Terskolak 1st Western) via the South counterfort of the Western ridge — first ascent, Category III complexity

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Terskol gorge, section number according to the 2013 classification table 2.4 from the Chipperazau pass to the Gumachi summit
2. Summit Terskolak 1st Western (3580 m) via the S. counterfort of the W. ridge
3. Proposed Category III complexity, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height gain 680 m, length 1160 m (according to altimeter). Length of sections with Category 4 complexity — 65 m, sections with Category 3 complexity — 210 m. Average slope of the route 36°, main part — 45°.
6. Number of protection elements used: 23
7. Time taken: 6 hours, 1 day

THE GROUP'S ROUTE ALONG THE NORTH. SLOPE AND WEST. RIDGE. ROUTE ALONG THE WEST. RIDGE CATEGORY 1B difficulty. GENERAL PHOTO OF THE SUMMIT. (Taken on December 15, 2015 from the ridge between the observatory and the 105th checkpoint)

Peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) Route: via the southern edge Category of complexity — 4B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) "via the southern edge 4B cat. dif. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School "School of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. Dominant country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol. Ridge: dominant massif: southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak - TersakItkolbashi". Peak: 3200.0 m (Terskolak Zapadny). Route: via the southern edge. Level of complexity: 4B cat. dif. (rocky).

27. Terskolak via the Western Ridge (Category I, route 1B, Figs. 2, 7). The path from Terskol village to the end of the moraine is described in Route 26. From here, turn right and ascend up-left along the grassy slope and scree to the saddle of the Western Ridge of Terskolak peak. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the simple rocks of the ridge:

• Traverse the 1st gendarme along the simple rocks of the destroyed ridge. There is a cairn on the gendarme.
• Descend from the gendarme along the simple rocky ridge to the connecting ridge under the 2nd gendarme.
• From the connecting ridge, ascend 30 m along simple smooth rocks to the first ascent of the 2nd gendarme.
• Then, ascend along rocks of moderate difficulty with a 3-meter wall to the 2nd gendarme.
• From it, a simple descent to the connecting ridge under the 3rd gendarme.
• From here, ascend 40 m along the simple rocks of the ridge and reach the foot of the rocky ascent of the 3rd gendarme.
• Bypass the ascent on the left via wide ledges and destroyed rocks (belay!).

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

25. Syltran via the East Ridge (Route 1B cat.). The path from the settlement of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac by Syltrangel Lake is described in Route 22. From the bivouac by the lake, ascend along the right bank of the stream to the exit onto a small unnamed glacier flowing down the northern slopes of the East Ridge of Syltran peak to Syltrangel Lake. Walk up the glacier towards a solitary rock among the scree slopes descending from the East Ridge of Syltran. To the right of the rock, via a scree-filled couloir (rockfall hazard!), ascend to the East Ridge of Syltran. From the lake, 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and ascend over snowfields, then over scree and heavily broken simple rocks of the East Ridge. Traverse large rock towers - gendarmes on the left (with protection!). Further, over scree and simple rocks of the ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Syltran. From the col, 2–2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov