St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.

Introduction

Peak Volnaya Ispaniya is located in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Bzhedukh and Ullu-Kara, and is very popular among both Soviet and foreign mountaineers. The most interesting and challenging routes, climbed in the right part of the eastern wall (Subbotovich, Myshlyaev), have repeatedly received awards and have rightfully earned recognition as classics. The first ascent of the left part of the eastern wall was made in 1978 by a team from the Bauman Moscow State Technical University and received an award. Since the route was only classified at the end of 1979, it did not gain much popularity and was repeated only in June 1980, although its technical difficulty and logic (it follows a nearly direct line) are no less than those of previously climbed routes on this wall. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Protocol No. 20

Ascent

Debriefing of the group of instructors from the "Shkhielda" alpine camp led by Parshin V.S. on peak Volnaya Ispaniya via route 5B cat. sl. (Kolomyttsev's route on the left part of the eastern wall) on June 16, 1980. Attendees:

• Release supervisor Shepalova G.N.
• Head of the rescue camp Barulin B.

Report

On the Third Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Khelda (2nd Zapadnaya) via the South-West Wall (V. Kuznetsov's Route)

Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" 1978

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)

I. Rock class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Peak Shchurovsky via the bastion on the north wall. 4. 5B category of difficulty. 5. Elevation gain 825 m, length 1109 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 626 m. Average steepness — 49°, of the bastion — 66°, including 116 m of 6th category sections. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 57, spare — 5; chocks — 48, spare — 1; ice screws — 42, spare — 0.