1. Plieva via North-West Ridge, cat. 4A

Text on the diagram: P. PLIEVA BLACK TAKEOFF NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROPE TEAM 3rd ROCK TOWER 2nd ROCK ISLAND 1st ROCK ISLAND

Fig. 37 183. Ronketti East — Main (combined route, category 3B, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to East Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83 and 179. From East Ronketti, descend (using rappel and athletic method) along the steep 180-200-meter West Ridge, bypassing the Sharp Gendarme on the left, with an exit to the sandy areas of the col between East and Main peaks of the Ronketti massif. From the col, move straight up along the crumbling, simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 150-meter East Ridge to the pre-summit wall of the East Tower of the Main peak. Along the moderately difficult rocks of the 35-40-meter wall (the most challenging part of the route - piton belay), then along the simple, gentle East Ridge, ascend to the East Tower of the Main peak. From the East Tower:

• first, along the simple rocky ridge,
• then along the snowy ridge, descend to a narrow snowy isthmus (cornices).

¹

1. False summit
2. Main summit
3. "Black gendarme"
4. Shelf
5. II ridge connector
6. I ridge connector
7. Overhanging rock in couloir

IV SW ridge III Route Sections: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29 Section Descriptions:

• 50 m 50° 3
• 20 m 60° 3
• 30 m 50° 3
• 40 m 50° 3

SONGUTI UP THE LEFT BUTTRESS OF THE CENTRAL EDGE IV Zhand. SOUTH TOWER BLACK ZHANDARM MAL. ZHAND. R1, R2, R3+, R4, R5+, R6–R23, R25–R28

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

II. Ascent Log

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — 2.7
3. PEAK — MALAYA SONGUTI, 3800 m, VIA NORTHERN BUTTRESS OF NORTH FACE
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN — 450 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 40°. SECTION LENGTHS I — 150 m, II — 300 m, III — 200 m, IV — 105 m.

Tur­khokh

Tur­khokh peak (4110 m) is lo­cated in the north­east part of the Tsey range, be­tween Pik Poyasova (over the Ula g pass) to the west and (over the Rodina pass) the Tsey peak to the east. Tur­khokh stands as a sep­a­rate rocky tow­er in the range be­tween two cols. The Rodina glacier lies be­neath the south­ern slopes of the peak, and the Doni­sar­tseti glacier be­neath the north­ern ones. The peak is tech­ni­cally sim­ple, heav­ily de­graded. The only route was first as­cended on 17 Au­gust 1934 by:

• I. An­to­no­vich,
• A. Zo­lo­tarev,
• D. Dons­koy,

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.