Panoramnaya Peak via North wall — Cat. 4B The path from the “Bezengi” base camp to the first stage of the Mizhirgi icefall can be seen in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass. 70 m ascent up a steep firn slope from the bergschrund. The rocky cape is bypassed on the left on the ice, then 35 m on simple rocks to the right – exit to the site of this cape. From the site 70 m up the stepped (destroyed) rocks. 50 m traverse left under the steep wall, then 3 m up the plate. From here 50 m to the right, then ascent on the plates to the sites of the lower rocky belt. From the sites up the ice-snow slope to under the rocky island. Traverse under it left-up to a steep ice shelf and fully up-right, then up a 3-meter icy vertical groove. Further up 60–70 m on a steep bowl-shaped ice slope (belay!) and on 50 m snowy rocks of medium difficulty – exit to the site in the upper part of the island. There is a control tour on the sites. From the site 100–120 m up the ice-snow slope to the light-brown wall of the North buttress of the Utës spire. 20 m right under the wall. Then up a 4–5 m chimney and 120–130 m on snowy, destroyed tile-like rocks of medium difficulty of the buttress. The 4-meter rocky ascent of the buttress is passed on the right side of the inner corner (belay!). And on the snow-ice slope left of the rocky ridge ascent under the second ascent. 10 m to the right under the ascent and up a 10–12-meter cleft up-left (piton!). 60–70 m up-left from the ascent on a steep snow-ice slope and snowy ridge – exit to the saddle between the Utës spire and Panoramnaya Peak. From the saddle left, on the snowy ridge (cornices!) and on simple rocks ascent to Panoramnaya Peak. 8–12 hours from the glacier to the summit.

154. Ascent via the Northeast Ridge (combined route by N. Chekmarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17).

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Salynan glacier with the initial bivouac on the talus above the glacier's tongue is described in route 152. Approach the saddle of the Salynan pass via the upper plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 300-350 m up a steep left or right ice-snow couloir (possible avalanches, protection required)
• Reach the platform on the ridge connecting the Northeast ridge of Salynan peak Reach the saddle of the Salynan pass. The initial bivouac is on the ridge or the pass. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, it takes 8-10 hours. The path from the "Chegem" tourist base to the areas at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the

155. Salynan via the East Ridge

(route is combined, category IIIB, fig. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Salynan Glacier is described in route 152. Approach the right side of the wide steep ice-and-snow slope via the plateau, descending from the East Ridge saddle to the left of a wide steep ice-and-snow gully with avalanche deposits. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
• ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the right side of the lower rock cape,

Peak Semenovsky 4050 m via the South Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty

From the Dzhangi-Kosh Hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of the 4050 peak, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050 m, 1–1.5 hours from the hut. Cross the cirque to the left in its lower part and ascend via the fine reddish talus or outcrops of broken rocks onto the S. ridge. To the right of the ridge, move up with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops, crossing snowfields, to the pre-summit rise of the ridge. Traverse along a ledge to the right of the ridge into a snowy gully and up it for 150 m to the NE ridge (ice possible in the upper part of the gully; one can divert to the rocks on the right). Follow the NE ridge leftwards to the summit, 4–5 hours from the hut. Descent follows the ascent route — about 1.5 hours. Hazardous areas:

• ice possible on the ledges of the S. ridge
• ice possible in the pre-summit gully

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

ROCK peak via N ridge (via Kündüm-Mijirgi pass) Initial bivouac — on the SW spur of Panoramnyi peak (3900 m). Route:

• From the bivouac, cross the left tributary of the glacier and ascend the snowy-icy slope left of the icefall to the cirque of Kündüm-Mijirgi pass.
• Ascend to the ridge via the couloir right of the pass "gendarme" from the bivouac in 1.5–2 hours.
• Along the ridge of sharp slabs, directly to the first "gendarme", then along the ridge below the wall.
• Up and left along the wall for 7–8 m to a ledge (pitons), from it right and up via a crack to the pre-summit ridge.
• Along the ledges right of the ridge for 70–80 m to the summit.
• From the saddle in 1.5–2 hours. Descent: via the ascent route to the bivouac in about 2 hours.

I. Description of the Traverse Route

I. General Description of the Traverse of Ukyu and Gidan-tau Peaks and their Location

In the central part of the Central Caucasus, in the area of the Bezengi valley, north of Koshtan-tau peak, a spur of the Lateral Range extends, with Ullu-auz-bashi peak located in its northern part. Northeast of Ullu-auz-bashi peak lies Dumala-tau peak, opposite which, to the northwest, is a spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks. The spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks belongs to the Dumala river valley, which flows into the Cherek Bezengiysky river on the right. (see map) The traverse of Ukyu-Gidan-tau peaks was started from the "Bezengi" alpine camp following the route described in "Ascent to Ukyu peak via the southeastern ridge, category 2B". The further traverse proceeded in a northwest direction to Gidan-tau peak, with a descent along the western ridge of Gidan-tau peak. Having started the route at 4:00 PM on August 6, 1963, the group of 6 people:

1. Minin V.P. - leader, 1st sports category.
2. Mekhannikov V.V., 1st sports category.

3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

4. Ukyu via NW ridge, 3A category

The ascent to the saddle between Gidan and Ukyu is described in route 2. From the saddle, traverse right, bypassing the first rocks along a snowy slope and then along a wide, crumbling ridge to the wall of the 1st "gendarme." Traverse left along a 6–7 m inclined ledge and then climb 20–25 m with piton protection up a steep internal angle (caution! — ice is possible) to a ridge with good rock features. Continue along the line of the gentle ridge with solid and reliable rock features (caution! — do not descend to the left onto ledges below the ridge — the rocks here are heavily broken and the features are unreliable). Descend from the upper point along a rocky ridge and snowy slope to a wide saddle. In an emergency, it is possible to abandon the route from here via the S couloir. From the saddle, ascend to the summit of Maly Ukyu across snow and simple rocks (caution — ice is possible). Continue along the ridge and descend to the left of the ridge along a rocky couloir and snowy slope to a pre-summit saddle. It is also possible to abandon the route from here via the second S couloir. From the saddle, ascend a 40–50 m snow-ice slope, then traverse rocks on a wide ridge to a gentle "shoulder." From there, ascend a snowy-icy slope to the S ridge. Traverse left along the ridge for 30–40 m to the summit. The ascent from the saddle takes 6–8 hours. Descend along the SE ridge as described previously. Hazardous locations: on ledges to the left of the ridge, beyond the 1st "gendarme," the rocks are heavily broken. Special equipment:

• 5–7 rock pitons
• 2–3 ice screws
• crampons for all participants

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.