From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.

North Caucasus Regional

SEARCH AND RESCUE TEAM OF EMERCOM OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent of the right part of the northern slope of the Chatkara peak 3898 m.

Presumably 2B category of difficulty. Leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich

Zheleznovodsk

2016 Addresses: 357433, Stavropol Krai, Zheleznovodsk, pos. Inozemtsevo, ul. Promyshlennaya,

CHATYN-TAU

EASTERN PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE

TEAM OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "KOLMEURNE" SPORTS CLUB COACH: HONORED MASTER OF SPORTS OF THE USSR, MIKHAIL KHERGIASHVILI TEAM CAPTAIN: R. GIUTASHVILI Tbilisi 1965

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTHEASTERN PEAK OF CHATYN-TAU BY A GROUP OF ALPINISTS FROM THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "KOLMEURNE" SPORTS CLUB, CONSISTING OF:

1. MIKHAIL KHERGIASHVILI — HONORED MASTER OF SPORTS OF THE USSR

Ascent Log

I. Winter Climbing Category. 2. Climbing Area: Central Caucasus, spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Chatyn 4368 m, route via the right part of the North face. 4. First ascent. Proposed difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics up to the ridge: height difference — 710 m, length — 855 m, average steepness — 56°, length of 5 m/tr sections — 675 m. 6. Pitons used: ice screws — 78, rock pitons — 2, chock stones — 4, bolt pitons — 0. 7. Total climbing hours: ascent with processing — 18.5, descent to Base Camp — 10.5. 8. Overnight stay: half-lying, on the shoulder before the ridge, ice was chopped. 9. Leader: Viktor Petrovich Avtomonov, Master of Sports.

Ascent Route Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF CHATYN-TAU VIA THE NORTH FACE (Snesarev A.A.'s Route) Central Council of the Lokomotiv Voluntary Sports Society (VDSS) Team, Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru

Lokomotiv VDSS Central Council Team Composition

97. Shkhelda Vostochnaya via North Face (Category 5B route) The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" along the Shkhelda gorge is described in route 111. From "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" (departure no later than 1:00 AM), cross the glacier and reach the wide snow-ice Central North couloir descending from the Eastern ridge — the "saw" of the Shkhelda Vostochnaya peak. Ascend 600–700 m along the right side of the couloir (avalanches!) to a large ice crevasse, 100–120 m below the huge bergschrund crossing the entire upper part of the couloir from the left to the right rocks. Through the avalanche gullies on the right side of the couloir, cross the large crevasse and ascend the ice-snow slope, then along the edge of ice and rocks, rise up to the right above

72

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: ice
2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Eastern Caucasus (2.9)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. M. Gadjieva 4073 m, from the glacier along the northern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average steepness 30°, length of sections: R1 – 100 m; R2 – 180 m; R3 – 250 m; R4 – 130 m; R5 – 150 m; R6 – 160 m; R7 – 220 m; R8 – 40 m; R9 – 40 m.
6. Number of anchors for belay:

Tfan Glavny via North-East wall Mamedov E.S. East Caucasus 2.11.15 11

Passport

1. Route type — ice and snow
2. East Caucasus, Makhmudchai river gorge
3. Tfan Glavny via North-Eastern wall
4. Claimed category — 3B ice and snow, first ascent
5. Height difference — 690 m, route length — 1230 m

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |