Report on the First Ascent to v. Zamok from the Northwest (Training Gathering of the Central Council of the LOKOMOTIV Sports Society)

Southeast Ridge of v. Zamok

(View from v. Burevestnik) View of v. Zamok from the ridge of v. Dolomit. The route of the first ascent to v. Zamok from the northwest wall.

46

Report

on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Privalov S.A. - leader
• Olkhovikov A.V.

Contacts

AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:

PASSPORT

1. Category — rock.
2. Caucasus, Aksaut gorge.
3. Marukh-kaya peak via the N slope and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 3A cat. diff. (combined), first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 650 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–40°.
6. Pits were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — 8.
8. Overnight stops — I (on Marukhkay pass).

27.8

Lesson No. 11 from October 24, 1962

Ascent Passport

1. Route — Snow-ice
2. Region — Приполярный Urengoy, Sablin Ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 2B, proposed
4. Route length, height difference — 1000 m, 600 m
5. Piton placement — 2 (ice screw)
6. Movement hours — 8 hours
7. Leader — Eremkin Mikhail Alekseevich (Pr. Shkat.). Participants: Polyakov Sergei Nikolaevich (Gr. Skot.), Senyashkin Alexander Mikhailovich (Pr. U koyt)

PASS

I. Technical category 2. Kirghizskiy Ala-Too, Ak-Sai valley 3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the ice couloir on the North face, 4740 m 4. Proposed 5B cat. of diff. first ascent 5. Height difference 820 m, length 1580 m Length of sections with 5 cat. of diff. is 280 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 50° (4100–4600), no sections of 6 cat. of diff. 6. Pitons driven: rock 20, bolt hangers 11, ice 80 7. Team's total climbing time 24 hours, days 2

97. Shkhelda Vostochnaya via North Face (Category 5B route) The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" along the Shkhelda gorge is described in route 111. From "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" (departure no later than 1:00 AM), cross the glacier and reach the wide snow-ice Central North couloir descending from the Eastern ridge — the "saw" of the Shkhelda Vostochnaya peak. Ascend 600–700 m along the right side of the couloir (avalanches!) to a large ice crevasse, 100–120 m below the huge bergschrund crossing the entire upper part of the couloir from the left to the right rocks. Through the avalanche gullies on the right side of the couloir, cross the large crevasse and ascend the ice-snow slope, then along the edge of ice and rocks, rise up to the right above

V. Uilpata

4648 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c) Tomsk, 2008 Participants: Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A.

Table of Contents