151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.

240. Bodorku Western — Eastern

(combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Bashil tourist center (group 4–50 people) to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Bashil glacier is described in route 236. Across the plateau (closed crevasses), bypassing the broken part of the Eastern branch on the right, approach the broken ice-and-snow western slope of the Northern ridge of the Bodorku massif. From the glacier, first ascend along the center of the gently sloping ice-and-snow western slope in the direction of the snowy summit dome of Bodorku. Then, above the lower crevasses and ice falls, ascend upwards — to the left in the direction of the saddle of the Northern ridge. Bypassing numerous crevasses, the ascent along the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Northern ridge — the Bodorku pass. The path to the Bodorku pass from the Chegem tourist center is described in route 241. On the saddle (when ascending via Bashil glacier), turn right and move along the wide, gently sloping ice-and-snow Northern ridge (cornices on the left); bypass rocky sections via ice-and-snow couloirs on the right. Having traversed an ice crevasse via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope to the ice dome of the Bodorku Western summit. From the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the Western summit, descend along the gently sloping easy, местами острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному скальному (rocky, presumably) Southeastern ridge to the saddle (cornice). From the saddle, ascend along the steep, острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному rise (cornices, protection required) of the Northwestern ridge to the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend along the simple, snow-covered, gently sloping Northwestern ridge to the summit of Bodorku Eastern. From the Western summit — 3–4 hours.

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

338. Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A, fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac. From Nakra village 4–5 hours. From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler. From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.

Сер­гей Дидо­ра. http://4sport.ua/articles?id=28268 Description of the route to Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). To Shkhelda Peak via the South Ridge, category 4B, to the traverse (R. Gelbling, 1903). From the horizontal part of the Ushba glacier, an ice-and-snow ascent leads to a nunatak. The rocks are bypassed on the left. There are platforms on the nunatak in case of bad weather. The height gain is 250 m — 1–2 hours. Approaching the rocks of the eastern slope of the South Ridge — 300 m — 20–50 minutes; category 2-3 difficulty. Ascending the rocks and moving upwards, choosing safe sections until the overnight stay below the gendarme — 700 m — 5–8 hours, category 3-3+ difficulty. Height gain is 700 m; Bypassing the gendarmes towards the South Ridge, traverse — 100 m — category 3 difficulty. Ascent via the couloir to the South Ridge — 120 m — category 3 difficulty.

84. Shkhelda Zapadnaya via the Western ridge from the North (Category II route). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp to the saddle between Pik Profsoyuzov and Shkhelda Zapadnaya with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's overnight stay" is described in route 82. Group size: 4-20 people. The path from the saddle to the summit of Shkhelda Zapadnaya is described in route 85. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. Required equipment:

• 4-5 ice axes
• Crampons for all participants

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent

293. Shkhelda Zapadnaya — Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya (route is combined, O. Aristova, category 3B, fig. 32, 41). From Shkhelda Zapadnaya (point 290) descend to the saddle along the easy-to-pass, but destroyed Eastern ridge. Then, move along the easy-to-pass jagged ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on (“live” rocks, belay), reach the saddle below the Western ridge of Shkhelda Vtoraya Zapadnaya. 1.5–2 hours from Shkhelda Zapadnaya peak. From the saddle, ascend along the easy-to-pass rocks of the Western ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, and move to the rocks of medium difficulty below the rocky ascent. Traverse the ascent from the right (rocks) along a steep ice-and-snow slope. Then,

Dolomit Severny from Dolomit Severny Pass, 2A

Route description:

From Chat bivouac, ascend via the right moraine and large talus slopes into the talus cirque between Chat-bashi Peak (left) and Dolomit Severny Peak (right). From here, take a straightforward snowy-talus slope to reach Dolomit Severny Pass. From the pass, traverse a 300-meter crumbling ridge to its sharp depression. From this point, descend leftwards to a ledge, then follow a chimney (R2) and a ridge composed of slabs to approach a large slab (R4) overhanging the ridge. Bypass it on the left via talus (loose rocks!). Continue via rocky terrain to a large "roof" slab lying edge-upwards, a key landmark. Bypass the "roof" on the left through a couloir and then ascend to the summit ascent via the ridge (beware of cornices early in the season!). From the ascent, descend via straightforward rocky terrain to a large talus saddle, then ascend the summit via a straightforward talus slope. The ascent takes approximately 5.5 hours from the bivouac. The descent from the summit follows the "Dоломит Северный по центру бастиона Западной стены" route, exiting onto Okhotnichy Pass. Then, descend via talus and snowy slopes to the bivouac in the Chat-bashi cirque (40 minutes from the pass).

M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.