Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h). Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h). Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Contents

• Title Page

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.

23

Climbing passport. Climbing category — high-altitude technical. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley. Peak, its height, route — p. Yu. Manoylova 5870 m via NE wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1670 m
• length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m
• average steepness of the main part — 70°
• wall length — 1025 m Pitons driven:
• Rock 82/6
• Bolt 0/0

Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude technical category.
2. Yazgulem Range, Khavraz-Dara valley.
3. Peak 5870 m via the north-eastern wall of the western spur.
4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately).
5. Route characteristics Wall: length 1385 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 1155 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 230 m). Average steepness – 73° (steepness of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 80°). Total route length 2225 m (6 category – 80 m, 5 category – 1075 m, 4 category – 500 m, 3 category – 470 m, 2 category – 100 m).
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors (ITO) rock pitons – 104, including 10 for ITO ice pitons – 12, including 3 for ITO

Description

Ascent to Peak Peredovoy via the Northwest Edge (First Ascent of the Route)

Geographical Information

Peak Peredovoy (6056 m) is located in the uppermost part of the Fedchenko Glacier area, in the northwest spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge, which branches off to the northwest opposite Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars (see diagram). The northeastern slopes of the spur are steep and hidden by hanging glaciers; the western slopes are less steep and composed of shattered rocks and steep glaciated scree, most of which is covered with snow. The northwestern end of the spur drops steeply towards the Fedchenko Glacier (see photograph of the general view of Peak Peredovoy). The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier have relatively gentle relief with a large number of hidden crevasses. Near the end of the spur, the crevasses are wide and open. Before the ascent described, Peak Peredovoy was climbed twice: by Dobrynin's group (August 12, 1960) and by Miklevich's group, which ascended Peak 26 Baкинских Commissars. Both times the ascent was made from the western slopes - the easiest route for ascent - rated 3B category of difficulty.

Approaches

The approaches to Peak Peredovoy were made via the following route. From the Lower Base Camp (altitude 3900 m), located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier, to the Upper Base Camp on the Fedchenko Glacier (altitude 5000 m) and further to the camp under Peak Revolyutsii (from which the ascent to Peak Revolyutsii by Myshlyaev's group was observed); see diagram.

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazglem Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Fedchenko Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12
2. Peak name: Pik Revolyutsii. Route name: via the rib on the eastern edge of the northern wall.
3. Proposed – 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1524 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3355 m.

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m