28. Bolshoy Igizak from Naizgba Pass, category 2A route, fig. 14.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, proceed upwards along the Igizak River through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. Then, turn right and begin ascending through a snow-filled depression under the northern slopes of Maly Igizak peak. Before reaching the slopes of Bolshoy Igizak, traverse left towards Naizgba Pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. Fig. 14. From the pass, ascend upwards via scree, keeping the ridge to the right. After circumventing the lower part of the ridge, access it via ledges and continue moving along the ridge over moderately difficult rock terrain, overcoming short walls interspersed with ledges. Belaying is simultaneous and alternating. Before reaching the summit, prior to a steep rise in the ridge, exit the ridge to the right via ledges into a narrow couloir and ascend approximately 30 m through it. The upper part involves navigating large, wedged rock blocks. The couloir leads to the western ridge of the peak, from where the summit is reached to the right via snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge — route 27. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky ridge 3. Peak "4200" along the center of the Southeast wall 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, variant 5. Height difference: 630 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections: 5 category of difficulty – 385 m, 6 category of difficulty – 250 m. Average steepness of the main part — 85° (3570–4130), including 6 category of difficulty: 95° (3835–3900), (3915–3935); 97° (3945–3965); 93° (3975–4075) 6. Pitons hammered:

V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)

From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.

связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

Тraverse В. KOMSOMOLA — В. 20 LET SSO 2B. section 0–1: Wide rocky ridge, heavily destroyed ridge — exit to В. Kom­so­mo­la. section 1–2: Snowy slope leads to the saddle between В. Kom­so­mo­la and В. 20 Let SSO. section 2–3: Pre-summit rocky ridge. Heavily destroyed in the lower part. In the middle part of the ridge:

• a "жандарм" (bypassed on the right)
• followed by a rocky couloir (60 m, steep rocky wall). After the couloir:
• a narrow rocky saddle,
• a narrow rocky ridge, ending with an internal corner. Along the internal corner — to the rocky ridge. After 60 m — the summit.

Peaks: 1385.8 (Limbeko-Iz (S)), Limbeko-Iz (1430.8) Route: traverse 1385.8 (Limbeko-Iz (S)) – Limbeko-Iz (1430.8) from northeast to southwest Complexity category: approximately 1B category Leader: Suvorov E. S. Subpolar Urals, Maldynyrd mountain range Section in CMGA - 8.3. E-mail: mr.zhur1958@mail.ru

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route: traverse Limbeko-Iz South – Limbeko-Iz Main from northeast to southwest. Complexity level – approximately 1B category (rocky) at the alpine event " Narodnaya-2010".

Supplement to the Route Description

Orlyonok NW 3A

Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque

Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak

Report

on the first ascent of the traverse of three peaks:

• p. 3657
• peak 3472 (peak Novorossiysk)
• p. 3440 (Bivachnaya) 3A cat. diff. by the group of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 28, 2022 Participants:
• Korolev A.V.
• Dedyukhin M.E.

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

Dumala-Tau Zugan-Tau Koysa-Tau 4176 m Druzhba – Gidan. Category 4B, rocky traverse. 37 SECOND PART OF THE Druzba - Gidan Tau TRAVERSE. PART OF THE RIDGE. FROM Druzba PEAK TO GIDAN TAU. 1969.