103. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:

• descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
• ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
• descend to the west first over simple rocks,
• then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further:

Ascent of Koshtan-Tau via the Southeast Ridge with descent along the North Ridge

Accomplished by the MGS DSO "Trud" team under the leadership of MS USSR A. Naumov. Tikhonov Peak Koshtan-Tau from the south (from the Spartak Pass)

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

The Koshtan-Tau massif, with a height of 5151 m, is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, and together with the peaks:

• Dykh-Tau,
• Mizhirgi,
• Krumkol,

80

Description of the Ascent Route to Koshtan-Tau Peak (5144 m) via the Central Counterfort of the North Face (First Ascent)

The ascent to Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) from the north via the central counterfort was accomplished between July 11 and 16, 1969, by a group from the LОС DSO TRUD, consisting of:

1. Nosov A.P., CMS - leader
2. Dreitser V.D., CMS - participant
3. Shymelis V.P., CMS - participant
4. Kosobokov L.I., 1st sports category - participant
5. Kuritsyn I.F., 1st sports category - participant Koshtan-Tau (5144 m) is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Main Caucasian Range and is one of the highest peaks in the Caucasus. From the north, several routes have been ascended and classified to the summit: 4B-5B category of difficulty. The path chosen by the group via the central counterfort of Koshtan-Tau's north face had long attracted the attention of Leningrad climbers, but in 1964, it was ascended by Czechoslovakian climbers, although they left no information about their ascent.

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Koshtan-tau via the right part of the north wall. Central Caucasus. Bezengi region. 1989.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — technical.
2. Region — Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Summit — Koshtan-tau, route — via the right part of the N wall. First ascent. Route is combined.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION OF FASIL ST. PETERSBURG CHAMPIONSHIP OF ST. PETERSBURG ON ALPINISM 2011 DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO Mt. KOSHTAN-TAU (5151 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTH FACE (A. SIMONIK) 6A cat. diff. THE ROUTE WAS CLIMBED BY THE COMBINED TEAM OF ST. PETERSBURG Team captain — Alexander Gukov, team head coach — Yuri Saratov Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, Main Caucasian Range, route classification section № 2.5
2. Name of the peak: Koshtan-Tau, 5151 m, route name: via the North Face
3. Cat. diff.: 6A
4. Route type: combined

Russian Alpine Championship

in the high-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Koshtantau via the left part of the Central Counterfort of the North wall (Simonik route) 6A category of complexity by the team from Rostov region from October 8 to 10, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

29

Peak Krumkol, 4675 m

Glavnaya Zapadnaya, 30 Route by Sections:

• Section R1
• Section R2
• Section R3 (August 1)
• Section R4 (July 31)
• Section R5 (July 29-30)

St. Petersburg City Alpinism Championship 2013

Climbing Passport:

1. Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 ECTM 2013
2. v. Krumkol (4688 m), center of the north wall (A. Kolchin), variant
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty (variant)
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference — 1600 m Total route length — 2900 m Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 505 m

1. Altitude-technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern array, section 25 p. 92 according to the classification table 2001
3. Krumkol, via C rib 6A (Timofeev's route) 4676 m
4. The route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1576 m. Route length: 1735 m. Length of sections: V–VI cat. diff. 1400 m. Average steepness: 70°.
6. Team's walking hours: 30 hours, 2 days.
7. Leader: Viktor Yu. Kramarenko CMS (Kharkov). Participants: Dmitry N. Podlesny CMS (Taganrog), born 1979. Alexander V. Gudzinsky CMS (Uzhgorod).
8. Coach: Valentina T. Orekhova, CMS, 1st category alpinism instructor-methodologist, cert. #550 (Taganrog);

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4