Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

• R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,

On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

• in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
• in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,

Foros Kant — 2B "Bolshoy Fontan"

Massif: Chelebi (657 m); Difficulty: 5A, VI, A2 Author: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 255 m Time to complete: 6–7 hours The route is located in the right part of the Foros Kant wall. The start is to the right of the "Rhombs" route. The approach is the same as for "Rhombs", but instead of turning left at the end, move up towards a large juniper growing under the wall. The start of the route is about 10 meters to the left. The general direction of movement is towards the left edge of the group of trees in the lower part of the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Initially, climb the slab, then continue on aid, there is a bolt, exit into a crack, ascend the crack to a mulda with trees; the belay station is on the upper left tree. (5 m V; 10 m A2; 15 m V; 15 m IV) R1–R2 45 m. From the tree, move up and left for 5 m, then ascend through cracks, slightly left; the terrain is rich, you can climb for about 10 m until reaching an overhang. Under the overhang, there is a bolt. From the bolt, climb up the slab using skyhooks (one relief, followed by two holey ones) to a tree. From the tree, move up and right through a small corner to reach a ledge. Climbing is tense at first, becoming easier after about 10 m. The belay station is on a tree. (15 m V; 5 m A2; 10 m V; 10 m III) R2–R3 40 m. From the ledge, ascend through an internal corner, initially by free climbing, and then on aid in the upper part.

"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)

Route thread A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones. Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing. The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used. In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:

• several medium-sized friends,
• a set of stoppers,
• seven to ten quickdraws.

The route in question is laid out on the northeastern side of the main peak of Layub Vostochny. The route can be conditionally divided into four parts:

• the lower part — a snowy slope, a snow-ice cone, rocks, below the "sheep's foreheads";
• the overhanging Northeast wall;
• the ridge of the counterfort;
• the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit. The route is generally complicated by solid rocky formations, heavily snowed, and sheer sections covered with accreted ice. The greatest difficulty is presented by a three-hundred-meter wall, with an overall steepness of more than 90°. The passage is facilitated by the presence of two giant internal corners crossing the wall in a zigzag from left to right, then from right to left (sections R4–R5, R5–R6, R6–R7) in the direction of the counterfort ridge. The most challenging part is the upper section of the wall (sections R9–R18), composed of ice-covered slabs with a steepness of 80°–90° and in places overhanging up to 120° and corniced. Further, the route passes along the complex steep rocks of the counterfort, transitioning into the rocky-snowy ridge of the summit.

Report

On the first ascent

on v. Sobor-Skala Gl. (1st tower) from the South

Climbing passport

1. Climbing area, section number according to the 2008 classification table
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name.
3. Proposed:
4. Nature of the route:
5. Height difference of the route: Route length:

The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

16 to Uchyitel peak:

The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.

1B to Molodezhny peak

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR TERRITORY

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO FISHT PEAK (NORTH-WEST) VIA THE RIGHT PART OF THE WESTERN WALL ROUTE OF APPROXIMATE 4B DIFFICULTY CATEGORY (SECOND ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM ALPINISM CLUB "SHTURM", KRASNODAR ON MAY 27, 2018 2018

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.