The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

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ASCENT PASSPORT.

1. Ascent class — technical, 3B.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Alaysky ridge, Kок-su tract area, cirque of Aydarbek glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5027 (p. Commune), via the North ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — combined, 1300 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 340 m. Average steepness 55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for artificial support points:
   • rock — 20;
   • ice — 11;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical. 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge, Alaudin glacier. 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: peak Jana Fabriciksa 4820 m, via the North face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 650 m, average steepness - 75°, length of sections - 880 m (R1–R6: R1 - 240 m, R2 - 80 m, R3 - 80 m, R4 - 160 m, R5 - 120 m, R6 - 200 m). 6. Pitons driven: for belay: rock - 87, ice - 2, bolted - (dash); for creating TPU: rock - 4, ice - 1, bolted - (dash). 7. Number of climbing hours - 33.

First ascent of the route to Peak Karaganda Northern (elevation 4800)

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Spur of the Guamysh ridge Alaysky district
3. Peak Karaganda Northern, W. slope
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B The route is snow-ice
5. Height difference — 780 m, length of sections: 4th category — 100 m, 3rd category — 700 m, 2nd category — 380 m. Average steepness of the route — 40°
6. Driven insurance hooks: Rock — 1, Ice — 7

30. Jyrty via South Ridge The route is combined, category 3B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 36, 37, 39). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 770 m, duration — 6–8 hours. The path from "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the Northwest wall of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, follow the moraines to reach under the wide scree, possibly snowy (descent) slope of the couloir descending from under Jyrty peak between the South and Northwest ridges, to the right of the Northwest wall of the West pillar. Up the wide scree slope of the couloir with outcrops of destroyed rock islands 800–900 m up to its bifurcation. From here:

• 100–120 m up the right ice-snow steep couloir descending from the saddle of the South Ridge, to the right of the large South pillar. Here, turn left and 100–120 m up the icy narrow rock couloir under the wall of the South Ridge saddle.
• On smoothed rocks of medium difficulty 60–70° with cracks, 40 m up (key location of the route, "live" stones, piton belay) to ascend to the saddle of the South Ridge to the left and above the Big pillar.
• On the saddle, turn left and 120–150 m up simple steep 40–50° rocks with short 5–6-meter walls of medium difficulty ("live" stones, belay) of the South Ridge — to reach the shoulder.
• Further on, by simple gentle destroyed rocks of the 30–40-meter shoulder, approach under the summit ascent and on steep 55–60° medium difficulty rocks of the ascent ("live" stones, piton belay) ascend to the summit of Jyrty. From the initial bivouac — 6–8 hours.

Russian Mountaineering Federation

The approach is similar to the one to "Hosilot" peak up to the overnight stay location. From the overnight stay location, we head north-northeast along a large scree with a slope of 30–35°. Rock outcrops are often found on the scree. The landmark is an osypnaya saddle visible from below. It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the saddle. From the saddle, we traverse the rocks with a slope of up to 30° to the left, which are covered with fine scree. The direction is towards an ice couloir that ends in a rock wall. It takes 30–40 minutes to reach the ice couloir. The ascent up the ice couloir is 150 m with a slope of 30–35° in crampons (the ice is porous). Belaying is possible on the rocks of the couloir. From the couloir, we exit onto rocks with a slope of 45–50°. The belay is with pitons, 3 × 60 m, and we reach the summit. The first ascent was made in August 1969 by: L. P. Lapshin, Candidate for Master of Sports T. N. Solovyova, Master of Sports V. I. Lavrukhin, Category I Descent is via the ascent route. Recommended category: 2B Approved

28. Bolshoy Igizak from Naizgba Pass, category 2A route, fig. 14.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, proceed upwards along the Igizak River through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. Then, turn right and begin ascending through a snow-filled depression under the northern slopes of Maly Igizak peak. Before reaching the slopes of Bolshoy Igizak, traverse left towards Naizgba Pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. Fig. 14. From the pass, ascend upwards via scree, keeping the ridge to the right. After circumventing the lower part of the ridge, access it via ledges and continue moving along the ridge over moderately difficult rock terrain, overcoming short walls interspersed with ledges. Belaying is simultaneous and alternating. Before reaching the summit, prior to a steep rise in the ridge, exit the ridge to the right via ledges into a narrow couloir and ascend approximately 30 m through it. The upper part involves navigating large, wedged rock blocks. The couloir leads to the western ridge of the peak, from where the summit is reached to the right via snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge — route 27. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow. Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours. The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours. To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich