From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag.

North Caucasus Regional

SEARCH AND RESCUE TEAM OF EMERCOM OF RUSSIA

Report

On the first ascent of the right part of the northern slope of the Chatkara peak 3898 m.

Presumably 2B category of difficulty. Leader: Donskov Andrey Mikhailovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich

Zheleznovodsk

2016 Addresses: 357433, Stavropol Krai, Zheleznovodsk, pos. Inozemtsevo, ul. Promyshlennaya,

CHATYN-TAU

EASTERN PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE

TEAM OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "KOLMEURNE" SPORTS CLUB COACH: HONORED MASTER OF SPORTS OF THE USSR, MIKHAIL KHERGIASHVILI TEAM CAPTAIN: R. GIUTASHVILI Tbilisi 1965

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTHEASTERN PEAK OF CHATYN-TAU BY A GROUP OF ALPINISTS FROM THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "KOLMEURNE" SPORTS CLUB, CONSISTING OF:

1. MIKHAIL KHERGIASHVILI — HONORED MASTER OF SPORTS OF THE USSR

Ascent Log

I. Winter Climbing Category. 2. Climbing Area: Central Caucasus, spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Chatyn 4368 m, route via the right part of the North face. 4. First ascent. Proposed difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics up to the ridge: height difference — 710 m, length — 855 m, average steepness — 56°, length of 5 m/tr sections — 675 m. 6. Pitons used: ice screws — 78, rock pitons — 2, chock stones — 4, bolt pitons — 0. 7. Total climbing hours: ascent with processing — 18.5, descent to Base Camp — 10.5. 8. Overnight stay: half-lying, on the shoulder before the ridge, ice was chopped. 9. Leader: Viktor Petrovich Avtomonov, Master of Sports.

Ascent Route Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF CHATYN-TAU VIA THE NORTH FACE (Snesarev A.A.'s Route) Central Council of the Lokomotiv Voluntary Sports Society (VDSS) Team, Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru

Lokomotiv VDSS Central Council Team Composition

97. Shkhelda Vostochnaya via North Face (Category 5B route) The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" along the Shkhelda gorge is described in route 111. From "Shkheldinskye nochyovki" (departure no later than 1:00 AM), cross the glacier and reach the wide snow-ice Central North couloir descending from the Eastern ridge — the "saw" of the Shkhelda Vostochnaya peak. Ascend 600–700 m along the right side of the couloir (avalanches!) to a large ice crevasse, 100–120 m below the huge bergschrund crossing the entire upper part of the couloir from the left to the right rocks. Through the avalanche gullies on the right side of the couloir, cross the large crevasse and ascend the ice-snow slope, then along the edge of ice and rocks, rise up to the right above

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

Tsikhvar­ga

Tsikh­var­ga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gur­ziv­ts­ek pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass lies the peak Sau­al­khoyne. The northern ridge of Tsikh­var­ga extends into a long spur with the peaks Tsagor and Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west, with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches. 80. Tsikh­var­ga via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, category II) From the settlement of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people), cross the Karaugom river by bridge and follow a forest road to the settlement of Nogkau. From here, move along a forest trail on the right bank of the Bartuy river. Further:

• the trail crosses to the left bank by bridge,
• after 2-3 km, returns to the right bank,
• along the right bank, approaches the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine ridge, then via scree and a steep snowy slope, reach the Bartuy glacier 200-250 m above its tongue. Initially, ascend on the right side of the glacier (closed crevices), then cross it to the left and emerge under the left side of the first step of the icefall on the Eastern branch of the Bartuy glacier. Further:

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.