Report on the First Ascent to the summit 3020.0 (Irkis Eastern) via the route "По восточной стене" 3B cat. diff. (rocky) by the team of "Sauk-Pai" club (Syktyvkar) in July 2018

The report was compiled in 2018.

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Leader's full name, sports rank	Nikolayeva Svetlana Olegovna (2nd sports rank, Voronezh)
1.2	Participants' full names, sports ranks	1. Besedin Roman (2nd sports rank, Rostov-on-Don)
1.3	Coach's full name	Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilyevich: CMS, category 1 instructor-methodologist, Syktyvkar
1.4	Organization	NP "Northern Travels Club 'Sauk-Pai' (Syktyvkar)"
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Ascent Passport

Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72°
• entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

• Snow-ice

2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Naruk station
3. Peak, ascent route — Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya from Dkh pass
4. Expected category of difficulty — 1B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m
6. Number of overnight stays — none
7. Number of walking hours — 6

2.2.6362

The summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat is located in the Main Caucasian Range (MCR). This section of the MCR starts from the Amanauz massif, after which the ridge lowers to the rarely visited "Nauka" pass and continues further - to the complex terrain of the multi-summit massif, connecting with the South summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat. From it, the ridge turns northeast to the Main (3921 m) and Uzlovaya (3800 m) summits of Dzhuguturlyuchat, from which a short spur branches off to peak Mitnikov (3700 m) and further to the East summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3880 m). From the latter, the spur branches out:

• to the north - to peak Ine (3409 m)
• to the west - to the West summit of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3700 m). The massifs of Dzhuguturlyuchat and Amanauz form a huge cirque, in which three glaciers are located. From the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat, the ridge has an eastern direction and connects to the rocky summit of Ptysh (3520 m). This section of the ridge is known as Akbeksky. The route to the summit of Uzlovaya Dzhuguturlyuchat runs along the eastern edge, which stretches parallel to the 3B category route to peak Mitnikov. The route is rocky in nature, except for the approach to the edge, which passes through the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier. From the "Dombay" tourist center to the Ptysh camps, this path is well described in Kropf's book (part 3). The ascent from the Ptysh camps to the East Dzhuguturlyuchat glacier plateau is possible through three broad couloirs:
• the 1st descends under the slopes of the Akbek peaks;

Class — technical. 3. Caucasus. Dombay area. Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:

• rock — 5/0
• ice — 4/0
• protection gear — 116/0
• slings on protrusions — 31/0. Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress. Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category. Team members:

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then:

115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.