«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches). The route was climbed on 11–12.10.2013 by Zakolodnii A.V. and Olivson A.Ya. The route is interesting and varied, following the natural terrain. The route passes between the «Two cornices» 5A and «Red corner» 5A routes, through the center of the two cornices. Two bolts were left on the stations along the route. Sokol mountain routes (Crimea)

Technical description.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches) From the road, orienting on a large red overhang in the lower part of the wall, approach the route. The first station is on a cypress tree. R0–R1 30 m. V. From the tree up to a large tree at the beginning of a large corner. Station on a large tree. R1–R2 50 m. VI, A2. Up the corner to the second horizontal crack 20 m. IV. Then traverse left to a system of small slots and cavities 8 m. V. Further up, orienting on a gully with bushes 22 m. VI, A2. Station in the upper part of the gully on personal anchors.

Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Dzhaksy" Route

So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route (Nadt­ochiy S., Lav­ri­nen­ko A., February 5, 2008), 6A

The route turned out to be interesting, challenging, and ambiguous in terms of orientation on the terrain. Places for pitons, anchors, and skyhooks need to be found among the resonant slabs and scaly exfoliations. The overall complexity is 5b+ (in other words, it's 6A, but not long enough to be real). Many parts of the route can be climbed, but most likely, they will be aided, as it's very difficult to organize protection while climbing. A team with experience in climbing routes of this type (e.g., "Machembo") can complete this route in:

• 7–9 hours. So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route 6A The route is called "Dzhaksy," which translates from Kazakh to Russian as "Хорошо" (Good). The total length of the route is 225 meters, with a complexity of 5B+ (i.e., practical 6A, but not quite). The approaches to the route are simple, and everything can be walked without being tied up, which cannot be said about the route itself.

Technical Description of the Route:

• R0–R1: 40 m, key climbing spot 5C, overall 5B+, protection is simple on pitons and cams. Station on 2 bolts hammered by A. Sergeev (Communist).

"The Final Stroke" (5b).

We made the first attempt to climb the route with Max Polyakov in winter 2009, but various reasons prevented us from completing it. We removed the ropes and left. Now, on April 1 and 2, Sanya Khomenko and I finished the route. Description by sections: the route starts from the same ledge as "Vosemorka", "Pesnya", "Khokhol cherez zerkala", and goes between "Pesnya" and "Khokhol". The beginning is easy to read; there is a bolt 8 meters above the ledge. Sokol, "The Final Stroke" route (5B). The route line is highlighted in blue. High-resolution photo 0–1 A small approach, then onto the bolts to a piton, from it up to the right to a crack with grass. Up through a series of cracks, sometimes on a slab. Belay station on a bolt and a hook. 40 m, A3. From the station, it's recommended to climb to the next bolt without accepting the belay to reduce the fall factor. 1–2 Up to the right on a slab with cavities (anchors, skyhooks), get over the bend, then on a more gentle slab to the station. There's a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 2–3 From the station, up to the left through an overgrown crack for about 10 meters, then ITO on the slab in the direction up to the left to a sloping ledge. On it, a station — a bolt and an anchor. 40 m, VI, A3. 3–4 From the station, 4 meters up to the left, then up on the slab to a small ledge, up to the right to the second ledge. From its left part, up through a series of cracks. Station on a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3. 4–5 From the station, up to the left, then up into an internal corner formed by the edge of a large flake and a wall. Up the corner, then up to the right under a small cornice. Through the cornice up to the right, then traverse to the right onto a ledge. Station on a bolt and a hook. 35 m, V, A3.

Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches. First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007. The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II. Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+) From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.
• R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2) Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection. Protection:

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" (Red Cornice) route, 5B. (author: Lishaev Yu. "Fantik"), cat. difficulty 5B The route has a variation — the first one and a half ropes follow the "Vos'merka" (Eight) route, and then a transition via bolts to the third rope of the "Bol'shoĭ kar­niz" (Big Cornice). Approaching the route "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route R0–R1: 50–55 m 6B, first 12 m up a diagonal crack to the right with self-belay, then a delicate traverse to the right onto a resonant "nashlyopka" (overhanging rock formation), then via bolts, belay station on a ledge on one bolt and one piton. R1–R2: 45 m 5c+, move up and left towards a crack, protection mostly pitons (watch out for moss!), belay station on two bolts in a corner. R2–R3: 40 m 6a+ (sometimes A1), protection on pitons and bolts, belay station under a large cornice on a bolt? (either one or two). "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) R3–R4: 25–30 m 6b+ (or A2–), protection on large nuts and bolts, belay station on a plateau on a small tree. Recommended equipment:

• 50 m rope

Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, T. Tsush­ko, A. Kho­men­ko (Odes­sa) Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle. From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall. R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:

• under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
• under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
• up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.

"To the left of Kant" 4B

The beginning — 3 ropes are shared with KPK and 4A "To the left of the Green corner" — stations are drilled, because in these areas it is possible to accumulate several teams. R4–R5 — the station was on a small tree, inconvenient. Hammered in 2 hammers. R5–R6 — added a hanger to the one that was already there. R6–R7 — near a tree, made a station on a ledge with 2 hangers. The route further leads to KPK.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route

Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

• R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,

On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

• in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
• in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,