Two hours' walk from the confluence of the Kara-Su and Ak-Su rivers, under the 3800 m peak, on the right-hand side, lies the base camp. From the base camp:

• Up the left moraine into a scree-filled couloir.
• Then right onto a grassy slope.
• Crossing a stream, past a gendarme onto a small shoulder.

Brief description of the route.

0–I From the small shoulder up through broken rocks, 20 m, II cat. diff. Exit onto a large ledge. Simultaneous movement. I–2 From the large ledge, up the left side of a rocky couloir for 60 m, II–III cat. diff. Movement with alternating belay. 2–3 Traverse the couloir from left to right. Move straight up on the right-hand side for 40 m, III cat. diff. Rocks are heavily broken. Rockfall hazard. Piton belay. 3–4 Up the left part of a vaguely defined rocky ridge through broken rocks, 40 m, IV cat. diff. Ascend to a ledge with a control cairn. Piton belay. 4–6 From the control cairn up the slabs, 100 m, II–III cat. diff. Alternating belay. Nuts.

Approach to the route along the slope leading to the northern ridge of the 3800 m "Dukhtarча" peak. Further:

• Traverse to the right along the scree and grassy slopes under the lower rocky belt under the western wall of the peak
• Exit to a deep canyon originating from the right part of the wall
• Overcoming the canyon directly under the wall
• Movement along the ruined rocks to the base of a wide scree couloir under the northwestern wall of the 4000 m "Dukhtorak" peak Section R0–R1. Ascent along the scree couloir and rocky outcrops like "barany lby" towards the saddle between the 3800 and 4000 m peaks. 400 m, 40°, diff. cat. II

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
3. Peak 4520 m via the Southeast wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 550 m, length. Length of sections:
   • 6th category of difficulty — 110 m
   • 5B category of difficulty — 260 m Average steepness of the route — 58°.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of alpinism development in Odessa PEAK 4810 (ODESSAN ALPINISTS), TURKESTAN RANGE FROM NORTH-WEST REPORT ON THE ASCENT BY RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, A/C "ODESSA" 1580 m, 2000 m, (Y–Yl) 980, 53°, 68/3 cm, 2/1 m, 83/3 cm, 20.49, 26 cm 8-10/7-86 Team Leader Sитник M.A. Coach Горбенко M.M. Старицкий P.S. — MS Серенков P.S. — MS Тодоров V.S. — CMS

PASSPORT

1. Class — technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-su gorge
3. p.4810(c) via the buttress 10.3. of the wall
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference 700 m, length 910 m Length of sections of 5–6 category of difficulty — 390 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 29, bolt — 4, chocks — 63
7. Team's travel hours — 16.5; days — 2

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge 3. Peak 4810 m, center of the northwest wall 4. Proposed 6B cat. sl. second ascent of Krishchuk's route 5. Height difference: 1160 m, length — 1480 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 825 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (3650–4670) Of these, 6B cat. sl.:

• 80° (3650–3800, 3875–3915, 4110–4195, 4220–4280);

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, 5.4.3.
2. Peak "4810", 4810 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
3. Category of difficulty: 6B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 1210 m (3600–4810). Distance: 1546 m Section distances:

• V–VI difficulty category: 1140 m Average steepness of the wall section: 78°, entire route: 70°

PASSPORT 23xe I. Class of technical ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin (Kara-Su) gorge. 3. Summit peak 4810 via the Center of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route) 4. Difficulty category — 6B, fourth ascent. 5. Height difference — 1160 m, route length — 1495 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1220 m. Average steepness of the route — 68 degrees. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74 degrees. 6. Pitons driven:

GENERAL VIEW OF THE SUMMIT. July 1993, "Lubitel-166" camera, distance 1.5 km, height 3200 m. 1 — Sitnik's route; 2 — Vedernikov's route; 3 — team's route.

Team's Tactical Actions

The team's tactics were determined by the extensive experience of climbing in this area, as well as experience participating in Alpine Championships. Preliminary reconnaissance and observation of the proposed route were organized, an approximate ascent corridor was identified, and a tactical plan was drawn up. The team's movement along the route was carried out in accordance with the tactical plan, which was fully implemented. The route was completed in 6 days:

• Days 1-2 — the lower part of the wall was processed (up to section #13). For greater efficiency, the work was carried out in triples;
• Day 3 — the team in full strength started on the route. They covered about 4 ropes above the processed sections, approximately 15 m from the line of movement, there was a flake in the form of a "fig" with a 1 m wide shelf. Having crossed it with a pendulum, a bivouac was organized there. Due to the fact that there were no more shelves for overnight stays ahead, it was decided to spend the night at this location twice, processing the route;
• Day 4 — sections #14-16 were processed;
• Day 5 — having passed the processed ropes and continuing to move vertically upwards, they reached a narrow sloping shelf, on which the last overnight stay was organized before the summit. On the same day, sections #24-28 were processed;
• Day 6 — the team reached the summit, having passed the "roof" with the maximum speed for climbs of such complexity. Along with the processed sections, they covered about 15 ropes.

Ascent Certificate

1. Category: Rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan ridge, Ak-su river gorge.
3. Object: Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall (Lebedev), 5.4.3.9.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route length: 1276 m, including wall section (R9–R24): 552 m. Height difference: 920 m, including wall section: 500 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 556 m, including 5th category: 444 m.