Two hours' walk from the confluence of the Kara-Su and Ak-Su rivers, under the 3800 m peak, on the right-hand side, lies the base camp. From the base camp:

• Up the left moraine into a scree-filled couloir.
• Then right onto a grassy slope.
• Crossing a stream, past a gendarme onto a small shoulder.

Brief description of the route.

0–I From the small shoulder up through broken rocks, 20 m, II cat. diff. Exit onto a large ledge. Simultaneous movement.

I–2 From the large ledge, up the left side of a rocky couloir for 60 m, II–III cat. diff. Movement with alternating belay.

2–3 Traverse the couloir from left to right. Move straight up on the right-hand side for 40 m, III cat. diff. Rocks are heavily broken. Rockfall hazard. Piton belay.

3–4 Up the left part of a vaguely defined rocky ridge through broken rocks, 40 m, IV cat. diff. Ascend to a ledge with a control cairn. Piton belay.

4–6 From the control cairn up the slabs, 100 m, II–III cat. diff. Alternating belay. Nuts.

4–6 Key section, up heavily broken rock, 40 m, IV cat. diff. Steep. Piton belay. Ropes. Rockfall hazard.

7–8 Up onto the ridge, II–III cat. diff. Simultaneous and alternating movement.

8–9 Move along the ridge to the right, 150–200 m, II cat. diff. Simultaneous movement.

Descent along the ridge to the northwest via a route rated 2–5 cat. diff.