1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, KTM TV 5.4
3. Peak 4750 (p. LOMO) — via the North Ridge, combined route, first ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Length — 1950 m including: length of 5–6 difficulty category — 400 m, including 6 difficulty category — 75 m. Average steepness of the main part — 64°. Height difference — 1150 m.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 46/4
   • chocks: 59/0
   • bolt: 1/0

1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4 "Mer­esyev", IX — IX, A3

№ 582 p. 20 26.01.88

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge. 3. Peak 4810 m from the northwest. 4. Third ascent, 5B category of complexity. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1550–1650 m, length of 5th category sections — 660 m, 6th category — 260 m,

Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river). 3. Peak Pyramidal (5510 m) via the central counterfort of the northern wall. 4. First ascent, category VI complexity (tentative). 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1720 m, route length: 1985 m, length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. — 1665 m, 4 cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness:

1. main part of the wall — 76°, 2) rest of the route — 66 — 66°.

6. Number of pitons used: | rock | chocks | ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class. Ice.
2. Ascent area. Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Ak-oyuk via E. ridge. Height 3880 m. The route is snow-ice.
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B.
5. Route characteristics. Height difference 900 m. Average steepness 35–40°.
6. 8 ice screws were used for belay.
7. Number of travel hours: 12–13.
8. The ascent was made from camp to camp without an overnight stay.
9. Climbers:

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Belukha V. 4506 m, via the North face through the saddle, ice.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m, length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 214 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 6, ice 55.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:

RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP in ALPINISM ICE-SNOW CLASS BELUKHA EASTERN 4506 m via North-West wall through icefalls first ascent SAYANOGORSK 1986 Addresses:

1. Krasnoyarsk Krai Saynogorsk

1. Climbing type — snow-ice
2. Climbing area, ridge — Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-Kem valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Belukha Vostochnaya, 4506 m, via icefalls of the North-West wall
4. Difficulty category — approximately 50, first ascent
5. Main characteristics of the route: height difference — 1506 m, length — 2033 m, average steepness — 57°, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 543 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, ice — 95, no screw-in pitons, placed protection — 8
7. Moving hours — 13 h

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.